Throw open your apartment’s tall glass doors and lean out onto the Juliet balcony just as an old electric tram trundles by. Stroll down a pretty cobbled street to enjoy a freshly-baked pastel de nata and coffee at a sunny pavement cafe. Watch the sun descend behind Lisbon’s terracotta rooftops as the Tagus river glitters in the distance. Are these stereotypical Lisbon vignettes? Yes. Does that make them anything less than wonderful? No! If you’ve ever dreamed of living in an elegant, historic apartment in central Lisbon, Ex Libris is the place for you. Previously home to a newspaper and bookstore, the building has been converted into 17 lovely 1-3 bed apartments that are ideal for couples, families and groups of friends.
Ex Libris means ‘from the books of’ and the interiors pay homage to some of Portugal’s most famous literary figures. Books are incorporated into the décor in tasteful, whimsical ways, including the cosy library-like reception area and multimedia artworks by up-and-coming artist Maísa Champalimaud. There's a great feeling of space with large windows, high ceilings and ample living quarters; the top categories have roof terraces too. It's a wonderfully interesting blend of centuries-old details, Portuguese heritage and modern style. Just as a sapataria is a shoe store and a pastelaria trades in pastries, Almaria specialises in creating properties with alma – soul, and Ex Libris is an excellent manifestation of this.
Highs
- These are some of the best-equipped self-catering apartments we’ve stayed in. Besides the usual appliances, each unit also has a dishwasher and a washer-dryer
- In the heart of Chiado with many sights, restaurants and shops on the doorstep. Next door is the fun Bairro Alto district, with its narrow streets and vibey bars
- The complimentary daily fresh bread delivery is delightful
- Really good value considering the location in central Lisbon and the apartments' size and facilities
- The team has created an outstanding guest experience by balancing the freedom of self-catering apartments with the support of a hotel and concierge service - you get daily cleaning, for example
Lows
- Ex Libris is located in a busy and noisy area, so you’ll want to keep your windows closed at night. The double glazing is excellent at blocking out noise though
- Lisbon’s historic buildings are charming but not well insulated, so you may hear some noise from neighbouring rooms and hallways
- The only common area is reception, but this is an apartment-hotel after all
- One-bedroom apartments don't have private outside spaces
Best time to go
Lisbon is lovely year-round but we love the shoulder seasons the most. April-June and October-November are sunny with perfect city-exploring temperatures. May is jacaranda season, giving the city a purple wash. In June, locals go all out celebrating their city’s patron saint, Santo Antonio, with street festivals, traditional Portuguese food stalls (don’t miss the freshly-grilled sardines), live music and lots of fun. Literature fans may want to book their stay around the Lisbon Book Fair in late August/early September.
Our top tips
Familiarising yourself with a little Portuguese literature before your visit will make encountering the authors’ statues and old haunts in the area around the hotel more meaningful. Fernando Pessoa, Luís de Camões and Almeida Garrett are good starting points. Our top tip for Lisbon is simply to bring comfortable shoes and explore leisurely on foot. Don’t pack too much into your visit – part of Lisbon’s charm is its tranquility and slower pace.
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 6 independent reviews from i-escape guests
Feedback is only from guests who have booked and stayed through i-escape