Black and white, old and new, day and night… It’s all about contrasts in The Lumiares, starting with the elegant lobby where striking monochrome tiles make a great first impression. Then there’s the fact that this 18th-century restored palace houses a collection of contemporary apartments. And the yin and yang of the trendy Bairro Alto neighbourhood: by day, tourists explore the cobblestoned backstreets while locals go about their daily business; by night, it transforms into one giant street party (don’t worry, triple-glazed windows mean you won’t hear a thing). Even the hotel’s name has a double meaning: ‘Lumiares’ because the building once belonged to Count Lumiares, but also a nod to the light-and-dark theme (referenced in the apartments’ hand-pressed typography posters).
There’s so much to love here: the service is nothing short of impeccable, and the rooftop restaurant is as special as its castle views (and cocktails). There’s also a sweet spa on the ground floor. But what made us fall hard was the bespoke décor by local artisans in all 53 suites, from handspun tapestries to urban artworks. Despite its hip hotel status and international accolades, The Lumiares never forgets its Portuguese roots.
Highs
- You’re in the heart of the Bairro Alto – a historic district with a bohemian soul. At night, pint-sized bars spill out onto the cobblestoned streets
- Lumi, the trendy rooftop restaurant, has spectacular city views
- Or self cater: each apartment has a fully equipped Smeg kitchen (including a fridge with complimentary soft drinks)
- Exceptionally friendly staff who send helpful pre-arrival info and take your number at check-in, so anything you need is just a WhatsApp away
- We loved the Portuguese designed décor and the cool cubic lighting installation in the central staircase
Lows
- It's pricey but you get a lot of space for your money
- Windows in street-level apartments don’t open (for security reasons)
- Bathrooms, though stylish, with geometric tiles, are on the small side
- Most apartments have high ceilings, however the building’s heritage means a few are partially sloped
Best time to go
Lisbon is lovely all year around, but June is possibly the most joyful month, when street parties in honour of the city’s patron saint (Anthony) are in full swing. Expect alfresco concerts, colourful decorations, barbecued sardines and a festive spirit. Late spring and autumn are also gorgeous periods, with the weather warm enough for day-trips to nearby beaches.
Our top tips
- Love the Claus Porto toiletries in your bathroom? Head to their flagship boutique down the road and stock up – they make great souvenirs.
- If you’ve fallen head over heels for the décor in your apartment (it’s hard not to), you can take any piece home with you – ask reception for prices.
Our guests' ratings...
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