Reviewed by
Sarah de Vere-Drummond
Sprawling down the hillside between São Jorge Castle and the River Tagus, Alfama has experienced something of a renaissance in recent years. Lisbon’s oldest district (and one of the few to survive the 1755 earthquake virtually unscathed), it was left almost deserted as younger generations moved to more fashionable areas. But fast-forward to the present day and Alfama has been rediscovered, its old-world charms luring a cosmopolitan crowd. It was only a matter of time before a slick design hotel moved in, too.
Hidden down a cobbled street lined with orange trees, the 42-room Memmo Alfama (younger sibling of the Algarve's Memmo Baleeira) is a minimalist reinvention of a 19th-century bakery. The façade has been carefully retained so that it blends seamlessly into the jumble of terracotta roofs and whitewashed buildings, and the only clue to its new incarnation is the striking mural by street artist Vihls which adorns one wall. But step inside and you’ll find a calming oasis of wood and stone, with modernist décor that perfectly complements the original features. Arne Jacobsen ‘Swan’ chairs are dotted around an airy lounge, and the old vaulted brick bread oven has been turned into a cosy reading room. But the real jewel in Memmo’s crown is the rooftop terrace, with its shimmering infinity pool, wine bar and jaw-dropping views.
Hidden down a cobbled street lined with orange trees, the 42-room Memmo Alfama (younger sibling of the Algarve's Memmo Baleeira) is a minimalist reinvention of a 19th-century bakery. The façade has been carefully retained so that it blends seamlessly into the jumble of terracotta roofs and whitewashed buildings, and the only clue to its new incarnation is the striking mural by street artist Vihls which adorns one wall. But step inside and you’ll find a calming oasis of wood and stone, with modernist décor that perfectly complements the original features. Arne Jacobsen ‘Swan’ chairs are dotted around an airy lounge, and the old vaulted brick bread oven has been turned into a cosy reading room. But the real jewel in Memmo’s crown is the rooftop terrace, with its shimmering infinity pool, wine bar and jaw-dropping views.
Highs
- Ideal for those seeking romance and sophistication, with an adults-only policy and seriously stylish design throughout
- The views from the roof terrace are some of Lisbon’s finest
- Free walking tours of Alfama with wonderfully passionate guides who point out hidden treasures around every corner
- Warm staff and a laid-back vibe help you feel instantly at home
- The location: the rickety yellow Tram 28 stops a few steps away, providing direct access to downtown, and an abundance of trendy cafés and shops are close by
Lows
- Rooms are small with showers only, but they feel light, modern and fresh
- Dinner is not available at the hotel, but they do serve excellent Portuguese tapas and bar snacks during the day
- The hotel is set on a cobbled back street so can be tricky to find
- Service at breakfast and lunch can be slow; you may have to track down staff to order
- Views across the river are periodically obscured by cruise ships (usually gone by early evening)
Best time to go
Lisbon is fabulous at any time. Coastal breezes mean the temperatures are bearable even in the height of summer, and there are festivals throughout the year (including Carnaval in February, the Lisbon Book Fair in April/May, and Rock in Rio Lisboa in mid-May). June can be raucous in Alfama, when the area hosts street parties to celebrate various saints' days. Note that many restaurants and shops close in August, though Memmo Alfama is open at all times.