Reviewed by
Tom Bell
Your prize for swapping the coast for the interior is this flawless rural B&B, a small-scale pleasure dome that must qualify as one of the loveliest places to stay on the island. It’s a little like having your own personal Kit Kemp hotel and proof positive that small is beautiful. However, it’s not just the house (stunning) or the price (a steal) that makes it so special. Barbara and Gianluca bought Lunetta in 2004 and spent 6 years renovating before opening in 2010. They are the kindest people and go out of their way to make your stay here special.
As for their heavenly retreat, you step through the old arched gate (this was once a coaching inn) to find a colourful courtyard with fairy lights in the lemon tree. Inside, stone walls soar in the airy sitting room, where fat sofas wait and an open fire smoulders in the unlikely event the weather turns. There’s a smart dining room where you eat sinful breakfasts (our best on Sardinia), then a snug with beautiful armchairs and a computer guests can use. Five indulging rooms come with high ceilings, warm colours, polished wood floors and the odd chandelier: new-world comforts, old-world charm. There are hills to climb, horses to ride, lakes to swim in and the extraordinary ruins of Su Nuraxi to explore. Don’t come for just 1 night - you’ll wish you’d stayed longer.
As for their heavenly retreat, you step through the old arched gate (this was once a coaching inn) to find a colourful courtyard with fairy lights in the lemon tree. Inside, stone walls soar in the airy sitting room, where fat sofas wait and an open fire smoulders in the unlikely event the weather turns. There’s a smart dining room where you eat sinful breakfasts (our best on Sardinia), then a snug with beautiful armchairs and a computer guests can use. Five indulging rooms come with high ceilings, warm colours, polished wood floors and the odd chandelier: new-world comforts, old-world charm. There are hills to climb, horses to ride, lakes to swim in and the extraordinary ruins of Su Nuraxi to explore. Don’t come for just 1 night - you’ll wish you’d stayed longer.
Highs
- The house and its delicious design - there are no false notes
- The cute courtyard; perfect for a glass of wine before you stroll out to find dinner
- The breakfast - cake stands overflow with irresistible treats. You can use the small kitchen throughout the day to chill drinks or prepare a plate of local cheeses, then decant into the courtyard
- Sardinia's interior - its vineyards and hill-top villages, its wild horses and Nuraghic ruins
- Barbara and Gianluca - you couldn’t fall into better hands
Lows
- Mandas isn’t the most beautiful of places, though the Old Town hasn’t lost its looks
- You’re out in the country - you’ll need a car if you want to explore
- A couple of the area's best restaurants are in neighbouring villages, so you may need to drive to dinner
- No twin rooms
- The mountain road over to the east coast is slow, but the scenery is stunning
Best time to go
The B&B is closed annually from November to February. Summers are very hot here, so walkers will want to come earlier or later in the year, as will bird watchers who want to drop down to Cagliari’s lagoons.
Trenino Verde, the famous old steam engine that hops over the mountains on its way to the east coast, runs from mid-June to early September. You can take the train or the bus up from Cagliari, so you don’t need a car and can travel 1 way (for this journey, although we'd recommend you hire a car for your holiday).
Trenino Verde, the famous old steam engine that hops over the mountains on its way to the east coast, runs from mid-June to early September. You can take the train or the bus up from Cagliari, so you don’t need a car and can travel 1 way (for this journey, although we'd recommend you hire a car for your holiday).