Costa Smeralda, in north-east Sardinia, is one of the most dazzling regions of Italy. The emerald sea speckled with wisps of sailing boats; soft curves of white beach, lapped by gin-clear waters; scented pines and barbary cactus hugging the coastline. Like the jet-setters that followed, Prince Aga Khan was captivated by its glorious beauty in the 60s, when he developed the area for upmarket tourism; today VIPs come to play on luxury boats and in glitzy nightclubs.
A minute's walk along a sandy track from Spiaggia Capriccioli, one of Costa Smeralda’s prettiest coves, is a trio of low-rise whitewashed villas with shared pool, enshrouded by gardens of aromatic myrtle and pink bougainvillea. Interiors are comfortably furnished in characterful ‘Smeralda style’: hand-painted murals, colourful tapestries, and a sprinkling of quirky trinkets from owner Geraldina. The result is stylish yet homely, and ideal for couples or families alike. Each villa is slightly different - Main House (sleeping 2-6) has a shaded outdoor kitchen built into granite rock, Stone Cottage (sleeping 2-4) has a pretty patio, and Terrace House (sleeping 2-4) has a sensational rooftop panorama over the bay; your own private VIP area.
Highs
- Unique, charming villas; owner Geraldina has delightful taste
- Wonderful sea views and huge windows and terraces to enjoy them
- Pretty Capriccioli beach is 2 minutes' walk away with turquoise sea and soft sand; you can also walk to 4 other beaches
- Self catering is a joy, thanks to fantastic fresh local produce. We loved relaxed alfresco meals, in such a gorgeous setting
- You feel hidden away but there's a wealth of activities close by: boat trips, stunning beaches and wine tasting
Lows
- It's expensive and the villas are quite small, plus rates exclude an end-of-stay clean, but you're paying for style in an exclusive area
- We've received reports of a lack of hot water in the Terrace House
- Stone Cottage is smaller than the others and lacks natural light and comfy indoor seating
- Kitchens are simple and aren't particularly well equipped
- The villas aren't well set up for colder months, and the local area tends to shut down during this time
- The pool is shared between the 3 villas, although there's plenty of space and loungers for everyone
Best time to go
High season is July and August, which are the busiest months but also a chance to see the Costa Smeralda circus. Porto Cervo is full of vast yachts, and people-watching is an activity in itself. However, the beaches and roads get very busy. Out of high season, many nightclubs and restaurants close. May and June are much quieter but in our opinion way nicer, with gorgeous spring flowers. September and October still have warm seas, and the beaches are blissfully empty.
Our top tips
Explore the coast in style - Geraldina can arrange a private yacht for the day. The crew will take you off to discover hidden coves, before treating you to spaghetti alla bottarga and Vermentino on the deck. You can even rent the boat overnight (it has 2 cabins).
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 3 independent reviews from i-escape guests
We loved our stay in the main house (3 bedrooms) - a stunning setting with unbeatable views of the sea from the two terraces, very spacious and perfect set up for lounging and enjoying. Great landscaping of the pool and parking, and a short walk from gorgeous beaches (and drive from others as they do get busy). We liked the quirky décor that gave the house a boutique feel. It wasn’t super luxe, but was well equipped for our needs - we enjoyed cooking on the outdoor grill, and relaxing in the various spaces on the property! Check in / out was also very easy thanks to the friendly team managing the property.
A fantastic location - in walking distance to beautiful beaches. A car is essential to get to local supermarket (approx 8-10 mins drive) - there are no shops within walking distance. The house was well proportioned with incredible views from a great sized roof terrace. We felt secluded from other 2 properties on the complex. The only issue we felt was that it needed some updating and refurbishment: the kitchen didn’t smell great and felt basic.
The view from the terrace is gorgeous! The design of the house is beautiful.
The apartment’s furniture is quite basic and lacks some comfort. The kitchen is not very well equipped. The air conditioning did not work in the living room. However, the location is exceptional which makes you forget these inconveniences.
Feedback is only from guests who have booked and stayed through i-escape