Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
There are some places where, within minutes of arrival, you know you've struck gold. This is one. After following a small country lane into olive-speckled hills outside Alghero, we swung up a steep drive and, as if by magic, the gate slid open. Pier Paolo was waiting on the flower-fringed lawn, along with his amiable collie Frida and purring tabby Lola, to show us into our spotless rooms. Within minutes, we felt completely at home, relaxing on deckchairs with chilled vermentino from the refreshingly priced honesty bar, while we plotted seafood dinners in Alghero and secluded swims on Stintino's white-sand beaches.
Having moved here in 2009, Pier Paolo and his partner Carlo (hence Ka-Pi, their initials) spent 5 years gutting and rebuilding the outhouse, transforming it into 2 small but perfectly formed double bedrooms, with a shared kitchen-diner and pretty gardens out front. Comfy kingsize beds, deluge showers and double-glazed French windows ensure you wash and sleep well. Pier Paolo whisks up delicious breakfasts on the terrace, then hands you a stylishly striped beach bag with a zipped cooler, orange towels and a parasol. You couldn't be in better hands.
Having moved here in 2009, Pier Paolo and his partner Carlo (hence Ka-Pi, their initials) spent 5 years gutting and rebuilding the outhouse, transforming it into 2 small but perfectly formed double bedrooms, with a shared kitchen-diner and pretty gardens out front. Comfy kingsize beds, deluge showers and double-glazed French windows ensure you wash and sleep well. Pier Paolo whisks up delicious breakfasts on the terrace, then hands you a stylishly striped beach bag with a zipped cooler, orange towels and a parasol. You couldn't be in better hands.
Highs
- Your hosts are generous to a fault, and full of local insights (Pier Paolo's day job is organising group tours)
- Pier Paolo makes one of the best breakfasts we've had in Sardinia
- A lovely rural setting, yet only 4km from Alghero and its beaches - you could even cycle there
- Alghero's historic honey-stoned centre, hugged by sea walls, is one of the Med's unsung jewels
- Perfect for a couple on a budget; even better for 2 couples travelling together
Lows
- You could feel quite cosy with the other guests: terrace, lawn and kitchen are shared
- No kids, unless taking the 2 rooms together (note that both are double-bedded)
- No pool, though the beach is only 5km away
- The B&B can be tricky to find
- When Pier Paolo is away, you can only book the "whole cottage (self-catering)" option, not individual rooms on a B&B basis; but Francesco, who deputises as a meet-and-greet, speaks good English
Best time to go
Alghero has the rare virtue of being a year-round city (though flights there may not be); we think it's at its best in April-May and late September-October, if you can get away then. Summer sees street theatre, concerts and exhibitions - and attendant crowds. Winter is great for cobweb-busting coastal hikes, and you can normally brave a swim as late as November.
Our top tips
For a lovely week away, combine a stay here with a few days in beautiful Bosa, 50km south. Take the magnificent coast road one way, stopping at La Speranza beach for a swim and pasta with scampi; and return inland via the sleepy village of Padria, where you can fill up on tasty penne with wild boar and porcini in the humble Trattoria da Giovanna (at the end of the village, turn left at the church).