Reviewed by
Harriet Whiting
A world away from Costa Smeralda, renowned for its jet-setter lifestyle, mega yachts and bronzed Italians, sits a hilltop house, immersed in silent wilderness, gnarled cork forests, wind-smoothed boulders and the scent of wild fennel. Its three terraces provide plenty of places to enjoy restorative views and spot wild hares and tortoises, while inside the house is lovingly decorated with reclaimed furniture and tiles, bespoke artwork and vintage fleamarket finds. Yet just 25 minutes away is the buzz of Esmeralda life with its blindingly white beaches, turquoise water, seafood restaurants and beautiful people.
Passionate owner Leontine is the linchpin that ties the two worlds together, with her artistic vision and effusive friendliness. She designed and decorated the house with a quirky, cool style which brims with high-quality adornments: top-notch kitchen appliances, air-con and luxuriously appointed bathrooms. And she has a remarkable ability to read guests’ needs. Whether you’re after mysterious Nuragic stone citadels, reservations at smart restaurants, beach tips, boat trips or hiking routes, Leo and her little black book of contacts will be your way in to the secrets of the Costa Smeralda that few visitors have time to discover.
Passionate owner Leontine is the linchpin that ties the two worlds together, with her artistic vision and effusive friendliness. She designed and decorated the house with a quirky, cool style which brims with high-quality adornments: top-notch kitchen appliances, air-con and luxuriously appointed bathrooms. And she has a remarkable ability to read guests’ needs. Whether you’re after mysterious Nuragic stone citadels, reservations at smart restaurants, beach tips, boat trips or hiking routes, Leo and her little black book of contacts will be your way in to the secrets of the Costa Smeralda that few visitors have time to discover.
Highs
- This is a timelessly simple private hilltop hideaway, perfect for couples and friends looking for seclusion and silence
- Yet less than half an hour from some of Sardinia’s most sensational beaches and restaurants, as well as Olbia airport
- The cottage is gorgeously curated; the homely design, superbly equipped kitchen and good WiFi make it perfect for longer stays or even workations
- Come in spring or autumn to experience the great mountain biking and hiking from the doorstep
- Very affordable: you could book it as a couple and not break the bank (or rattle around)
Lows
- The access track to the cottage is very steep and bumpy: you will need a high-clearance car, ideally a 4x4 (you can hire Leo's Landrover)
- No swimming pool
- It's clearly a part-time home, full of knick-knacks and finds from the beach; not suitable for minimalist fans
- Not suited to kids under 5 due to the un-landscaped and wild terrain around the house (heaven for wilderness lovers, though)
- Note the 5-night minimum stay (7 in July and August)
Best time to go
Olbia Hideaway is very much a year-round destination, but you'll discover the 'real Sardinia' outside of peak summer. Spring into May and June are good for kayaking, horseriding, picnicking and local trattorias. Autumn means sunshine and quiet beaches. In winter months, sunny days are perfect for walking and cycling with cosy nights by the fire. July and August see an explosion of visitors, where sunloungers line beaches and the world’s richest people come out to play...
Our top tips
Although it’s tempting to go out for dinner every night to people-watch the glitterati, make sure you enjoy evenings at the house too. Sunset paints the mountains a brilliant gold and the silence is deafening. Pour a glass of Vermentino and watch stars pinprick the inky sky.