Reviewed by
Tom Bell
Lucrezia stands on the northern edge of a village, its soft-pink walls embracing it protectively. There’s no inkling of what to expect within, but soon you spot a door cut into an old wooden gate and seconds later you’re stepping through into another world, swapping the dust of the village for a wonderful courtyard garden. You’re entranced immediately - the colour, the style, the sense of peace, all fill you with instant pleasure. It’s a lovely surprise - you probably didn’t expect to find this measure of beauty within. But now it’s yours and soon you’re sitting under a tree with a glass of something cool to welcome you into the fold.
This 17th-century house belonged to owner David’s grandfather, a gathering place for several generations of the extended family. When he died no one could bear to part with it, so they decided to turn it into a lovely small hotel, keeping the feel of the past alive while adding the comforts of the present. It’s gorgeous from top to toe - 8 smart rooms, generous prices, lovely staff on-hand to help - but it’s the garden that steals the show, a lushly shaded wonderland with tables and chairs scattered about in all the right places, and a massage tent in a quiet corner. Add a string of beaches to the east and the coastal ruins of Phoenician Tharros and you’ll find this small slice of heaven hard to leave. One of the loveliest hotels on the island, simple as that.
This 17th-century house belonged to owner David’s grandfather, a gathering place for several generations of the extended family. When he died no one could bear to part with it, so they decided to turn it into a lovely small hotel, keeping the feel of the past alive while adding the comforts of the present. It’s gorgeous from top to toe - 8 smart rooms, generous prices, lovely staff on-hand to help - but it’s the garden that steals the show, a lushly shaded wonderland with tables and chairs scattered about in all the right places, and a massage tent in a quiet corner. Add a string of beaches to the east and the coastal ruins of Phoenician Tharros and you’ll find this small slice of heaven hard to leave. One of the loveliest hotels on the island, simple as that.
Highs
- There are 20 beaches within 20km - sunset is usually rather good - and beautiful bird-filled lagoons behind them, where pink flamingos gather in April
- The courtyard garden (where meals are also served) - you’ll be coming back from the beach earlier than you think
- The sense of staying at a proper old country house - there's a billiards room and free house aperitifs are served at sunset
- Phoenician Tharros, its beautiful ruins slipping gracefully into the sea nearby
- You’re well positioned to explore the island - the fast road makes day trips easy
Lows
- The village (Riola Sardo) is a bit dull, but once ensconced in the courtyard, you forget it’s there
- There’s no pool, but you do have 20 beaches within easy striking distance
- Some may find the decor a little too old-fashioned but we loved it
Best time to go
The hotel is open from Easter to the 1st week of November. May is a perfect time to visit: prices are extremely attractive, the weather is lovely, the season has only just started and there aren’t too many people about. It’s also not too hot, so it’s a good time to take to the hills and hike, as is April and October. Or come over the first weekend of September for the festival of the barefoot runners. However, prices here are reasonable throughout the season, making high summer affordable to those who like to take to the beach when it’s 40 degrees in the sun.
Our top tips
Hotel Lucrezia is named after a woman who lived here from 1895 until 1934. Some of the older women in the village remember her and, like the hotel that now bears her name, she was a bit of a star, welcoming prince and pauper to her door with equal enthusiasm, a tradition still practiced at the hotel today. However, Hotel Lucrezia isn’t only lovely, it also occupies a great position on the island for visitors as the fast road that links north and south is only 8km away. So don’t make the mistake of staying for only a couple of days. This is a great base with good prices for what it offers and you can be in Cagliari in an hour, Alghero in an hour and a half, or you can even get across to Cala Gonone on the Golfo di Orosei for awesome boat trips up that spectacular stretch of coast. In short, this is a great island base.