Archontiko Angelou

Alinda, Leros, Greece
Book from GBP 83

A slice of pastoral paradise at this graceful country house, a short stroll from Leros' loveliest beach

A slice of pastoral paradise at this graceful country house, a short stroll from Leros' loveliest beach

It's rare in Greece to find a grand old building offering such elegant B&B. Follow the driveway through a leafy estate to this gorgeous 1895 country house, once the holiday home of Marianna’s great grandmother. At the front, red, pink and white geraniums burst with colour; a stunning jacaranda shades the breakfast table. Look hot and a glass of freshly-squeezed lemon juice will arrive on a tray. Pillared stone steps lead up to tables and chairs on a small terrace. Inside, spoiling, homely bedrooms come on two floors: those above get the light, those below stay deliciously cool.

You’re 250 metres from the loveliest beach on dreamy Leros (itself one of the secret jewels of the Dodecanese), yet fields surround you and mountains rise behind. Goat-bells and cockerels interrupt the afternoon cicadas. Hire a car or moped to discover tiny churches paddling in the sea, castles on top of mountains, undiscovered fishing villages that bask in the sun and sandy beaches where you can throw your towel under an olive tree.

Highs

  • The house: a graceful echo of a grand past, authentic, charming and affordable
  • The position: hidden away in a beautiful garden surrounded by olive trees, yet minutes from the sea
  • The owner: Marianna is just delightful
  • The diving: there are 2 diving schools close by, and WW2 underwater wrecks to explore
  • The breakfast menu: Marianna's homemade food is gluten-free and vegan

Lows

  • Food on the island tends to be simple
  • No pool, but the beach is at the end of the lane
  • Not much in the way of amenities (and only 2 rooms have air con), but you're here to switch off!
  • No kids allowed

Best time to go

The island is one of the loveliest in the Mediterranean and if you avoid high season (mid-July to the end of August), you’ll have it mostly to yourself. Even in midsummer, though, Leros is one of the quieter - and breezier - islands. May is probably the best month to come; you can swim in the sea from then until late October.

Our top tips

Leros is a working island, alive 365 days a year with a permanent population of 8,000. It remains wonderfully unspoilt, and those who like a little gentle exploring will love it here

Great for...

Beach
Cheap & Chic
Great Outdoors
Romantic
  • Boutique B&B
  • 9 rooms
  • Breakfast only (walk to restaurants)
  • Over 18s only
  • Open all year
  • Pool
  • Spa Treatments
  • Walk to beach
  • Pet Friendly
  • Disabled Access
  • Car not necessary
  • Parking
  • Restaurants Nearby
  • WiFi
  • Air Conditioning
  • Guest Lounge
  • Terrace
  • Garden
  • Gym
Room: Room 2

Rooms

This is a big old house with fine proportions, and an extremely sympathetic renovation has brought former glories back to life. The feel is warm, grand, nicely airy. You get high beamed ceilings, cast-iron beds, crisp white linen and original wood floors. Wander around and you’ll chance upon old rocking chairs, brass lamps, original murals on the walls. The same cool style runs through the house, but no two rooms are the same, and all the peculiarities of an old country house survive; one room has original alcove wardrobes, another has an 1895 tiled floor.

Rooms on both levels run off a central hall where you find sofas and armchairs to sink into. Only 2 rooms have air-conditioning, but thick walls and ceiling fans (or table-top fans in some rooms) suffice (downstairs rooms tend to be cooler). No in-room phones, but - much more usefully - small fridges (in all except Katikia) for keeping drinks cool. Simple bathrooms come in the English style, with showers instead of tubs.

There are 5 rooms on the upper floor (better views) and 3 rooms below (much cooler). All are similar in size except a Double with A/C (Room 3) on the first floor which is smaller. There are also 2 Suites with 1 double and 2 single beds. Two side rooms (Superior #2 and Double with A/C #4) have small balconies.

At the back of the house, in a separate building that once housed a wine press, is the latest addition: Katikia, a double room with an ensuite shower bathroom.

Features include:

  • Fan
  • Minibar
  • WiFi

Eating

Much of what makes it to the breakfast table is home-grown, home-made and vegan; marmalades come from fruit plucked from the garden. You can choose a sweet breakfast, a savoury breakfast or a small breakfast, and you might get freshly-squeezed orange juice or lemonade, almond milk yoghurt, fruit and home-baked bread, rice pudding or vegan nut cheese. Marianna is extremely good at catering to dietary requirements (just let her know in advance). She doesn't make anything with gluten, and her cakes rarely feature sugar. Her specialties include gluten-free bread, raw flax seed crackers, cashew cheese, almond milk, chia pudding, gluten-free chocolate muffins, and more delicious healthy food.

If you want to head off for the day, Marianna can (with prior notice) fix you a picnic lunch (juice, sandwiches, fruit) or you can stop off at beachside tavernas (in Pandeli you can actually eat on the beach).

In the evenings you look after yourself. You can walk up to Alinda (a 5-minute stroll), where 8 or 9 restaurants are open each evening (simple taverna food, on the whole). Otherwise, just blow with the wind. All the villages have tavernas, and nowhere on Leros is more than a 20-minute drive.

Features include:

  • Breakfast
  • Restaurants nearby
  • Vegetarian options
Eating:
Activity: 5-mins-from-Alinda-beach

Activities

  • You can wander up the lane to Alinda beach (250m away), the best on the island. The town itself, strung out around a wide bay, is the pinnacle of development on Leros (eight restaurants, five shops, a couple of bars)
  • The island’s beaches are mostly sandy, but tend not to be particularly deep; you can lie on your towel and have the waves lap at your toes - well, nearly. Mariana can prepare picnic baskets with one day notice
  • The snorkelling is excellent, and you can go diving at Krithoni (1.5km) or Xirokambos (10 km). There is also a diving centre - Marianna can arrange for lessons and boat hire to explore the WW2 underwater wrecks
  • Heading south to Xirokambos, keep left (for the southern tip of the island) and you’ll pass a tiny whitewashed church from the 12th century, Built into the side of a rock, its feet paddle in azure waters; there's wonderful swimming off the rocks here
  • Agia Marina is your best bet for nightlife. Follow the road around the coast, then head over the mountain to Gourna. Try the Mylos Taverna in Agia Marina (make sure you book in advance), drop over to Pandeli for lunch on the beach, or drive up the hill and check out the castle that surveys the faded neo-classical capital, Platanos. The views here take in the whole island and stretch across the sea to Turkey
  • Don’t miss the north: the untouched fishing village of Agia Kioura where absolutely nothing happens, but where you can watch fishermen land their catch and fix their nets. Keep to the coast roads and you can scramble down to tiny coves (sand or shingle) and have them to yourself
  • If you fancy exploring on two wheels, Leros has e-bikes available for hire

Activities on site or nearby include:

  • Cycling
  • Fishing
  • Hiking
  • Historical sites
  • Museums / galleries
  • Scuba diving
  • Scuba diving courses
  • Snorkelling
  • Swimming

Kids

Archontiko Angelou is an adults-only hotel.

Kid Friendly:

Location

Archontiko Angelou is on the island of Leros in the Dodecanese. Leros can be a little hard to get to but the hotel will help you arrange your travel and can provide helpful advice.

By Air
Either fly via Athens to the domestic airport on Leros (4km away). Or take a charter flight to Kos (Cos) or Samos or Rhodes, and then catch a ferry to Leros (90 mins sailing time from Kos).

From the Airport
From Leros airport or port, take a taxi to the hotel - it's very close - or you can hire a car if you want to explore the island during your stay.

By Boat or Hydrofoil
There are daily sailings from Rhodes and Kos to Leros - and then on to Athens. The hydrofoils are much faster and usually worth the extra cost - rough summer schedules are:
Cos (2- 3 daily, 90 mins)
Rhodes (2 daily, 2+ hours)
Samos, Ikaria, Fourni (2 daily, 2+ hours)
In high season there are also connections with Mykonos, Paros and Syros.

From the Port
Take a taxi from Lakki or from Aghia Marina. Or hire a car - see our car rental recommendations.

Detailed directions will be sent once you book through i-escape.

Airports:

  • Leros 4.0 km LRS
  • Athens, Eleftherios Venizelos 275.0 km ATH

Other:

  • Beach 0.3 km
  • Shops 0.3 km
  • Restaurant 0.3 km

Our guests' ratings...

Based on 4 independent reviews from i-escape guests

9/10
Room
10/10
Food
10/10
Service
10/10
Value
10/10
Overall

We had almost 2 weeks at Archontiko Angelou and it was a special view of Greek hospitality. Nominally bed and a vegan breakfast, the house and its very large sheltered garden were a haven. The cool dark and charming entrance hall had all day facilities for coffee, many specialist teas, cool water and ice. (tap water not safe to drink). We sometimes brought food and had luxurious picnics at the various tables scattered throughout the big shady garden. Our room did not have aircon, but sited at the back of the house it stayed cool even on the hottest days. Marianna Angelou was a very friendly host and her associate Artemis was an enthusiastic bread and cake maker for our breakfasts. The house and its provisions became the centre of our holiday and the guarantee of value and quality. Alinda had a narrow but serviceable shingle beach, some hundreds of yards long, mostly well shaded by trees. Some ten or so restaurants and cafes served tables along the beach. We stayed at the end of the season, late September to early October, so there wasn’t much activity, and the quality was fairly moderate, though the (non-Greek) coffee was always good. We used the very punctual island bus service or just walked everywhere. Blefouti (via the bus) was a favourite swimming site into a lovely bay. Lakki is the liveliest township, with a huge marina and lots of restaurants. In our second week we discovered Dio Liskaria which is small holiday development at the very end off the coast road on the left hand sweep of the bay. It’s easily walkable. This first bar Zephyros had very good food and a cheerful disposition. The swimming there is the best we found.
i-escape has been the helpful source of our last three holidays. We are confident that their choices match our hopes and our budgets. Their assessments of different sites has proved invaluable.

9/10, , October 2024

Excellent place to stay. Marianna was really helpful and communicative. She helped us organise taxis to and from the ferry port. The breakfasts were amazing. The room and house were beautiful and so peaceful. The nearby beach was a few minutes walk away and the water was glorious! Would very much recommend staying here and visiting Leros.

10/10, , August 2024

The house and garden of this sweet little hotel are simply beautiful. A fresh and delicious breakfast is served in the shade of the trees in the garden. Marianna is a great host, helpful and always available. I recommend renting a bike if you want to explore the island. I am already looking forward to coming here again.

10/10, , September 2023

Very restful night spent at Archontiko Angelou on island of Leros during an island-hopping trip of the Dodecanese in August 2020. At the height of the COVID panic, precautions such as eating breakfast at tables spread at decent distances from each other in the shade of the mature trees in the residence's gardens were reassuring. Our host, Marianna, was charming and helpful in her quiet way and she has restored her family's old mansion in a sympathetic manner, while retaining the characteristics of its late 19th Century heritage while making the rooms highly comfortable for guests. We had one of our most restful nights of our holiday here due to the very comfortable bed and quality linens provided. A key point to note is the close proximity of the house to nearby beaches and tavernas – easy walk. Marianna is able to arrange in advance taxis to and from the Port for ferries. The full vegan breakfast (a first for us) was delicious and makes full use of the fresh fruits available from the house gardens. For something a long way from the usual tourist trail hotels and also for a little bit of peace and tranquillity, I can certainly recommend a stay with Marianna at Archontiko Angelou on Leros.

10/10, , September 2020

Rates for Archontiko Angelou