Reviewed by
Tom Bell
It's rare in Greece to find a grand old building offering such elegant B&B. Follow the driveway through a leafy estate to this gorgeous 1895 country house, once the holiday home of Marianna’s great grandmother. At the front, red, pink and white geraniums burst with colour; a stunning jacaranda shades the breakfast table. Look hot and a glass of freshly-squeezed lemon juice will arrive on a tray. Pillared stone steps lead up to tables and chairs on a small terrace. Inside, spoiling, homely bedrooms come on two floors: those above get the light, those below stay deliciously cool.
You’re 250 metres from the loveliest beach on dreamy Leros (itself one of the secret jewels of the Dodecanese), yet fields surround you and mountains rise behind. Goat-bells and cockerels interrupt the afternoon cicadas. Hire a car or moped to discover tiny churches paddling in the sea, castles on top of mountains, undiscovered fishing villages that bask in the sun and sandy beaches where you can throw your towel under an olive tree.
You’re 250 metres from the loveliest beach on dreamy Leros (itself one of the secret jewels of the Dodecanese), yet fields surround you and mountains rise behind. Goat-bells and cockerels interrupt the afternoon cicadas. Hire a car or moped to discover tiny churches paddling in the sea, castles on top of mountains, undiscovered fishing villages that bask in the sun and sandy beaches where you can throw your towel under an olive tree.
Highs
- The house: a graceful echo of a grand past, authentic, charming and affordable
- The position: hidden away in a beautiful garden surrounded by olive trees, yet minutes from the sea
- The owner: Marianna is just delightful
- The diving: there are 2 diving schools close by, and WW2 underwater wrecks to explore
- The breakfast menu: Marianna's homemade food is gluten-free and vegan
Lows
- Food on the island tends to be simple
- No pool, but the beach is at the end of the lane
- Not much in the way of amenities (and only 2 rooms have air con), but you're here to switch off!
- No kids allowed
Best time to go
The island is one of the loveliest in the Mediterranean and if you avoid high season (mid-July to the end of August), you’ll have it mostly to yourself. Even in midsummer, though, Leros is one of the quieter - and breezier - islands. May is probably the best month to come; you can swim in the sea from then until late October.
Our top tips
Leros is a working island, alive 365 days a year with a permanent population of 8,000. It remains wonderfully unspoilt, and those who like a little gentle exploring will love it here