Baoussala
Near Essaouira, Essaouira & Atlantic Coast, Morocco

Reviewed by
Guy Hunter Watts
Head south from Essaouira towards the surfing beaches of Sidi Kaouki, then cut seawards along a rural road past errant donkeys, tiny farmsteads and waving children. Arriving at Baoussala will become a treasured memory, it’s one of those places where pictures will never capture the feeling and atmosphere they’ve created.
You’d never guess the pinky-salmon, crenellated walls of this kasbah-inspired hideaway are just a few decades old: antique window grilles, mature trees and a walled garden with rambling jasmines, roses and bougainvilleas suggest a much older building. The 8 bedrooms and suites, wrapping round an intimate courtyard, have been decorated with masses of TLC by Dominique, whose artistic sensitivity permeates every corner.
This delightful guesthouse has the feel of home and sanctum, with an accent on authenticity and simplicity. Come to make new Moroccan friends, eat wholesome food, walk barefoot through dunes and enjoy that sense of being far away from the mundane.
You’d never guess the pinky-salmon, crenellated walls of this kasbah-inspired hideaway are just a few decades old: antique window grilles, mature trees and a walled garden with rambling jasmines, roses and bougainvilleas suggest a much older building. The 8 bedrooms and suites, wrapping round an intimate courtyard, have been decorated with masses of TLC by Dominique, whose artistic sensitivity permeates every corner.
This delightful guesthouse has the feel of home and sanctum, with an accent on authenticity and simplicity. Come to make new Moroccan friends, eat wholesome food, walk barefoot through dunes and enjoy that sense of being far away from the mundane.
Highs
- Dominique is one of the few ex-pats we met living in Morocco who treats her staff as if they were family
- There are masses of intimate areas for chilling out - in the courtyard, by the pool and in the gardens
- The exceptional cooking is of the slow variety, with a genuine commitment to using only fresh, local produce
- The bedrooms and suites are quiet and comfortable - decor is regularly refreshed
- Bright colours, eye-catching fabrics and stacks of paintings by local artists impart a cosy vibe throughout the house
Lows
- You're not quite on the beach (5km away), nor in Essaouira (9km away) - but the rural setting is magically tranquil
- It's popular with French guests, so during French school holidays it fills up with families
- The remoteness of Baoussala means that you'll probably eat in, but the food is excellent and fairly priced
- It's not for the animal-shy, as Dominique’s dog and cat (and a few tortoises) are an integral part of the scene
Best time to go
Avoid the midsummer months, when temperatures soar and Essaouira gets packed out. Spring is a great time for flowers and migrating birds, and you should still be able to swim here in autumn.
Our top tips
In Morocco it’s always a good idea to have a few photos of your family and home: you’re bound to be quizzed about them when you talk to local people.