Salut Maroc
Essaouira & Atlantic Coast, Morocco
Reviewed by
Nadine Mellor
In my time reviewing hotels I've often come across 'years of painstaking renovation', 'wonderful craftsmanship' and the 'unique design details' deployed in the creation of a 'vibrant work of art' by a 'visionary owner'. And then I stayed at Salut Maroc!.
British designer Helen Howat, passionate about Arabian design and Moroccan architecture (she worked in the Middle East for years), acquired an 18th-century riad - formerly a Jewish merchant house then a consulate - and spent 5 years on its ambitious transformation. Her contemporary reinvention of traditional crafts meant incorporating Islamic patterns, stunning vintage pieces, clashing yet sumptuous upholstery and dazzlingly intricate tilework. The ground floor has a bespoke 54-panel wall-hanging beside mid-century modern furniture and a sunken library in shades of flame. Ascend the staircase - each riser painted differently - to 2 blue floors housing a hammam and 10 fabulous rooms inspired by Moroccan cities. At the top is the romantic rooftop dining terrace with magnificent ocean views. Artwork ranges from note-perfect kitsch paintings to Berber wall art. And, this isn't just a design showcase, it all actually works! Rooms are supremely comfortable and calming, there's plentiful hot water for the signature copper bathtubs, the food is delicious, and the ambiance is delightful.
British designer Helen Howat, passionate about Arabian design and Moroccan architecture (she worked in the Middle East for years), acquired an 18th-century riad - formerly a Jewish merchant house then a consulate - and spent 5 years on its ambitious transformation. Her contemporary reinvention of traditional crafts meant incorporating Islamic patterns, stunning vintage pieces, clashing yet sumptuous upholstery and dazzlingly intricate tilework. The ground floor has a bespoke 54-panel wall-hanging beside mid-century modern furniture and a sunken library in shades of flame. Ascend the staircase - each riser painted differently - to 2 blue floors housing a hammam and 10 fabulous rooms inspired by Moroccan cities. At the top is the romantic rooftop dining terrace with magnificent ocean views. Artwork ranges from note-perfect kitsch paintings to Berber wall art. And, this isn't just a design showcase, it all actually works! Rooms are supremely comfortable and calming, there's plentiful hot water for the signature copper bathtubs, the food is delicious, and the ambiance is delightful.
Highs
- Great location in Essaouira's Unesco-listed medina overlooking the Skala du Port (bastion) and the Atlantic
- Breathtaking and unique restoration, everything fashioned to a very high standard; interior design buffs will be in heaven
- Lovely helpful staff
- Extraordinarily beautiful bedrooms and bathrooms, each individually decorated; good value for the high quality
- Wonderful rooftop restaurant and bar with live music and fabulous ocean views
- A vibrant and fun hangout for cool couples, but very welcoming to families, too
Lows
- Most rooms are fairly compact; don't expect much by way of wardrobes or floor space for luggage
- Bathrooms don't have showers, only big copper bathtubs with handheld shower heads
- Steep winding stairs up to the roof terrace; there's no lift (to be expected in an old riad)
- Fairly loud music is played throughout the hotel well into the evening, so bring earplugs if you intend to retire early
Best time to go
Essaouira is an all-year destination. Winter sees a magical light and winter sunshine, although it can rain, of course. Spring and autumn are popular. Summers can be very windy and hot.
Our top tips
Do make sure to have drinks on the roof terrace for that magical light over the ocean as the sun goes down.