Le Jardin des Douars
near Essaouira, Essaouira & Atlantic Coast, Morocco
Reviewed by
Ben Reed
Driving inland from the wind-battered coast, past laden donkeys and fields of argan trees, Le Jardin des Douars appears like a sandcastle on the horizon. Pass through the gates, and colour explodes from the botanical gardens; birds tweet, bees buzz, and calm slips over you like a Moroccan cape. From the main ksar atop the valley, lush gardens cascade down to the oued (river) below. We spent happy afternoons spotting terrapins in ponds, lazing in hammocks and counting butterflies. Two heated jade-green pools are the focal point – a quiet infinity pool for adults, another for families to go wild. And as the sun drops, the enchanting candlelit terrace bar serves up cocktails serenaded by a frog-and-cricket chorus, followed by alfresco dining under starry skies in the warmer months.
Inside the imposing façade, plant-filled courtyards and tranquil water features give a refreshing, inside-out feel. Rooms, Suites and Villas are classically Moroccan in style, with traditional tiled floors, antique furniture and time-worn doors. It’s only 15 years old, but already feels rooted here. The beaches and medina of Essaouira are 15 minutes away, but the happy vibe, slick service and genuine warmth make it hard to tear yourself away.
Inside the imposing façade, plant-filled courtyards and tranquil water features give a refreshing, inside-out feel. Rooms, Suites and Villas are classically Moroccan in style, with traditional tiled floors, antique furniture and time-worn doors. It’s only 15 years old, but already feels rooted here. The beaches and medina of Essaouira are 15 minutes away, but the happy vibe, slick service and genuine warmth make it hard to tear yourself away.
Highs
- Sensational botanical gardens bursting at the seams with colour against the bright blue sky; absolutely stunning on our last revisit
- All pools are heated to 28C, so you can swim year round
- A wonderful balance between a family haven and a couples' retreat; adult-only areas include a pool, dining room and candlelit hammam spa
- Feels decadent but with a well-pitched price tag – especially if renting one of the fabulous staffed villas
- The inland river-valley location ensures you avoid the worst of the infamous local winds
Lows
- No outside life within walking distance, so you're confined to eating on site or shuttling into Essaouira (no bad thing with fantastic restaurants)
- You'll probably want a car unless staying put; taxis add up (although a shuttle bus option is available)
- If here in the school holidays, you may not find the tranquility and romance you're after as many families are in residence
Best time to go
Unlike other parts of Morocco, Essaouira is a year-round destination. The famous summer winds keep the temperature to a bearable degree even in July and August. Locals swear by the calm other-worldly light in January and February, but it can get a bit nippy in the evenings. We'd recommend either March to May or September to November for the best overall conditions. The hotel is closed for two weeks in January annually
Our top tips
Go wine tasting at the Val d'Argan, said to be the best winery in Morocco. The cheapest Gazelle de Mogador is a crisp, refreshing white (perfect with fresh fish) and the Orient du Val d’Argan is gutsy and moreish