L'Iglesia
El Jadida, Essaouira & Atlantic Coast, Morocco
Reviewed by
Joyce Copeland
Early in the 1500s Portuguese explorers founded Mazagan, one of the first outposts on Morocco's Atlantic coast and an important stop on the trade route to India. When they were ousted in 1769, it became El Jadida (‘The New’) - a fitting name for what is now one of Morocco's freshest tourist destinations. Its beautifully preserved Unesco-listed centre, lively arts community and established infrastructure proved an irresistible combination for experienced hotelier Jean Dominique Leymarie, and over 3 years he transformed a crumbling Catholic church and the former harbourmaster's office (later the American consulate) into the town's first boutique hotel.
The meticulously restored interiors offset flannel grey and taupe with jewel-like greens, golds and reds. The retro furnishings in the 13 rooms and suites range from Art Deco to mid-century modern, and Barcelona chairs sit under ornate chandeliers in the church nave (now a lounge-bar). Stroll to El Jadida's fortress or bike to the beach, then return to bask in the sea breeze on one of the sprawling roof terraces before perusing the daily specials chalked on a board outside the restaurant. It’s a cocktail of culture, style and relaxation that deserves to be savoured.
The meticulously restored interiors offset flannel grey and taupe with jewel-like greens, golds and reds. The retro furnishings in the 13 rooms and suites range from Art Deco to mid-century modern, and Barcelona chairs sit under ornate chandeliers in the church nave (now a lounge-bar). Stroll to El Jadida's fortress or bike to the beach, then return to bask in the sea breeze on one of the sprawling roof terraces before perusing the daily specials chalked on a board outside the restaurant. It’s a cocktail of culture, style and relaxation that deserves to be savoured.
Highs
- El Jadida is a gem for history and culture hounds: still under the radar, yet only an hour from Casablanca airport and easily tacked onto a visit to Marrakech (3 hours away)
- An air of laid-back luxury: 2 huge roof terraces, a massage room, alfresco cocktails, live music each evening, even an outdoor bathtub for sunset soaks
- We loved the super-cool style and offbeat flea-market finds, including quirky collections of coffee grinders, vintage radios and Berber caps
- Delicious food in the restaurant - think Moroccan tagines, French crêpes and the freshest of seafood
- Close to beautiful beaches, with discounted access to the golf course, tennis courts and spa at a nearby resort
Lows
- Rooms are housed in 2 separate buildings 100m apart; guests staying in the church will have to head to the consulate for lunch and dinner, though breakfast and drinks can be served in the cloister
- Most rooms have city views and none have outside space; however, there are panoramic views from the roof terraces
- No pool for cooling off
- The smiling staff deliver great service, but their English is limited so you might want to brush up on your French
Best time to go
The hot, dry summer months (June to September), when the temperature hovers between 30 and 35C, are popular with beach-lovers. Spring (April and May) and autumn (October and November) are sunny, breezy and a little cooler - ideal for exploring, and much less crowded. Winter (December to March) brings mild days (around 22C), but it rains heavily at times and nights can be chilly.
Our top tips
Arrange for Sylvie, a lecturer and expert on the history and culture of El Jadida and neighbouring Azemmour, to be your guide for an afternoon. She can give you an invaluable insight into the evolution of everything from architectural styles to El Jadida's multicultural heritage, which embraces Muslims, Jews and Christians. The hotel can also help you book shopping guides who can lead you to gifts and souvenirs at the best prices (as Jean Dominique says: "They won’t take you to their uncle’s carpet shop.")