Reviewed by
Abi Dare
The concept of a boutique B&B - intimate accommodation with designer style and highly personalised service - has been winning friends among the fashionistas and dolce viveurs of mainland Italy for a while; now we have boutique-chic in Palermo. And a good thing too, for Sicily's vibrant, gritty, love-it-or-hate-it capital could do with an injection of personality to challenge its large and loveless hotels.
Milanese owner Patrizia Marchetti spent 3 years restoring her 15th-century palazzo, tucked away on a quiet side street behind the imposing San Domenico church. She kept her apartment on the second floor, but the floors above and below were transformed into 7 immaculate guestrooms, all furnished with an imaginative mix of antiques and sleek, contemporary pieces. They proved so popular that another 4 soon followed, on the upper floor of a separate townhouse a short walk away. Both buildings are topped with breakfast rooms and terraces where you can sit back on comfy sofas and gaze out over Palermo’s rooftops, and Patrizia and her staff are on hand with insider tips. Ideal for those seeking style and seclusion in this fascinating city of faded grandeur.
Milanese owner Patrizia Marchetti spent 3 years restoring her 15th-century palazzo, tucked away on a quiet side street behind the imposing San Domenico church. She kept her apartment on the second floor, but the floors above and below were transformed into 7 immaculate guestrooms, all furnished with an imaginative mix of antiques and sleek, contemporary pieces. They proved so popular that another 4 soon followed, on the upper floor of a separate townhouse a short walk away. Both buildings are topped with breakfast rooms and terraces where you can sit back on comfy sofas and gaze out over Palermo’s rooftops, and Patrizia and her staff are on hand with insider tips. Ideal for those seeking style and seclusion in this fascinating city of faded grandeur.
Highs
- A chic and intimate escape from trafficky Palermo
- Well-placed for historic sites, restaurants, the famous Vucciria market and the seafront
- Large rooms for a city B&B; if you want more space, the rooms in the newer Moncada Palace building can form a self-catering apartment for 4-8
- Muted colours offset by exuberant touches - we loved the Philippe Starck 'Ghost' chairs, and the fabulous egg-shaped tub in the suite
- The roof terraces are great spots for lounging; Sicilian wines and nibbles are on offer come evening
Lows
- Don't expect full hotel services: there's no restaurant, and reception isn’t staffed at all times (let them know your arrival time)
- Expect some street noise, plus clanging from a nearby workshop if you’re in the original palazzo building (though it ends well before bedtime)
- No lift, so you'll have to negotiate several flights of stairs
- Breakfast is fairly basic, but Palermo has no shortage of places where you can top up with pastries
- We’ve yet to see the Moncada Palace rooms in person, but we’re told they’re as appealing as the others
Best time to go
Spring (March-May) and autumn (September-October) are the best times to visit, although the weather can also be splendid in winter. Summer (June-August) is generally hot and sticky in this chaotic city.
Our top tips
Hire a horse-drawn carrozza on Piazza San Domenico for a leisurely tour of the city; prices are set by the authorities and it should cost no more than €50-60 for an hour. Ask to end up at the Foro Italico, a stretch of waterfront where you'll find several tempting gelaterie.