Berber Lodge
Douar Oumnas, Atlas Mountains, Morocco
Reviewed by
Nikki Tinto
If you were to design a film set for a traditional Moroccan hamlet, it might look a lot like Berber Lodge. Hidden away along a bumpy track, in the foothills of the snow-covered Atlas Mountains, the dwellings are impossibly picturesque: a cluster of low-rise adobe cubes, set amid acres of old olive trees and cacti. It's hard to believe the bustle of Marrakech is just half an hour away. This perfect Moroccan scene is the vision of Swiss architect Romain Michel-Ménière - known for some of the capital's most stunning interiors. Now he's designed his own lodge where he and his kind staff welcome couples, families and friends looking to relax.
Built from traditional Berber materials - earth bricks, tadelakt plaster, palm-tree beams - the 9 standalone bedrooms and central main house are an exquisite mix of elegance and simplicity. From the vintage fabrics to the raffia lampshades, you'll want to take everything home. Day trip to the Marrakech medina, explore Oumnas's ancient kasbah, take a quad-bike around the nearby lake or meet donkeys at the local sanctuary... whatever you do it's always a joy to return to the shady pool and a delicious home-cooked dinner, surrounded by candles and a chorus of cicadas. We loved this magical place and can't wait to return.
Built from traditional Berber materials - earth bricks, tadelakt plaster, palm-tree beams - the 9 standalone bedrooms and central main house are an exquisite mix of elegance and simplicity. From the vintage fabrics to the raffia lampshades, you'll want to take everything home. Day trip to the Marrakech medina, explore Oumnas's ancient kasbah, take a quad-bike around the nearby lake or meet donkeys at the local sanctuary... whatever you do it's always a joy to return to the shady pool and a delicious home-cooked dinner, surrounded by candles and a chorus of cicadas. We loved this magical place and can't wait to return.
Highs
- Wonderful rural location within easy access of Marrakech
- Just 9 beautifully styled, spacious rooms; rustic-chic with a sense of place and attention to detail
- Relaxing in the huge gardens surrounded by hundred-year-old olive trees and birdsong with a gorgeous pool for cooling off
- The home-cooked food is delicious, often made with produce from their own gardens
- Authentic and soulful with heartfelt hospitality; owner Romain and his team ensure guests are treated like friends
Lows
- Meals are set menus; let staff know if you have dietary requirements
- There's not much in the way of entertainment, and no TVs; guests come here to unwind and enjoy the countryside
- Don't expect 5-star hotel facilities: showers can be lukewarm, the pool is unheated, and WiFi is only available in reception
- The lodge is tucked away down a bumpy road and tricky to find; be sure to bring our detailed directions or book an airport transfer
Best time to go
Spring and autumn are ideal times to visit, when daytime temperatures are comfortably warm, though you might need a jumper in the evening. Summer (June-August) is baking hot; winter (November-March) can be cold and rainy but it is often warm enough to sit outside.
Our top tips
Don't try to cram in too many activities or day trips while you're staying at Berber Lodge - this is a perfect place to slow down for a few days and soak up the peace and authentic atmosphere.