Bolonia Beach Houses
near Tarifa, Costa de la Luz, Spain
Reviewed by
Guy Hunter Watts
The tiny hamlet of Bolonia has escaped the developers unscathed thanks to the existence, right at the ocean’s edge, of one of southern Spain’s best-preserved Roman settlements: even in summer you can stake a claim on its gorgeous arc of white sand. Just beyond this, high on a cliff above a hidden bay and a natural park, is a secret oasis built into a cliff face. Up here, you're sheltered from the levante wind by the highest dune in Spain and a forest of umbrella pines. And the views will astound you. Gaze out at Atlantic breakers rolling in, hawks circling above the pine forest, and the twinkling lights of Tangier shining after dark, reminding you that Africa is tantalisingly close.
The property has three self-catering houses which fan out beneath a sandstone bluff. The Casita is perfect for a couple, the larger Stone House is ideal for families or friends, and The Glass House happily suits both. They all share a secret landscaped garden with mysterious sandstone monoliths and spring-fed pools filled with frogs. Below this, a sandy path winds through the trees down to El Canuelo beach, always deserted because it's inaccessible by road. Prepare yourself for a magical journey to one of Andalucia’s most seductive and secluded retreats.
The property has three self-catering houses which fan out beneath a sandstone bluff. The Casita is perfect for a couple, the larger Stone House is ideal for families or friends, and The Glass House happily suits both. They all share a secret landscaped garden with mysterious sandstone monoliths and spring-fed pools filled with frogs. Below this, a sandy path winds through the trees down to El Canuelo beach, always deserted because it's inaccessible by road. Prepare yourself for a magical journey to one of Andalucia’s most seductive and secluded retreats.
Highs
- The views out over the forested dunes, protected pine forest and the strait towards North Africa are heart-achingly beautiful
- The beautiful houses, sleeping 2-6, are unique in style and perfectly spoiling; the larger house has a spectacularly sited plunge pool
- The magnificent, Zen-like garden, with hidden corners and double daybeds sprinkled amongst the rocks and lawns: it's made for honeymooners
- Good kitchens for self-catering. Stock up on fresh seafood at Tarifa's market
- The little village of Bolonia, where you’ll find a spectacular beach and great oceanside restaurants and beach bars
Lows
- The access track is off-road and very bumpy (you'll want a 4x4), so driving out to restaurants at night might seem a bit daunting (10 mins' drive to Bolonia, 20 mins to Tarifa)
- Levels of service and maintenance may not be what you'd expect for these prices – you're paying for the location and those views
- This is a popular wedding venue, so the houses are often booked out over weekends - particularly in spring and autumn
- You can't drink from the taps here as the property relies on well water, but big water filters are provided
- You have to pay the balance of your stay on arrival in cash, plus a sizeable security deposit
Best time to go
The houses are open all year. The area fills up with holidaying Spaniards in July and August, but you're well away from them in this secluded spot. This area is pretty peaceful in other months, and thanks to near year-round sunshine even winter can be very pleasant - though be prepared for beach restaurants being closed out of season. Expect close encounters of the windy kind all year round; when the levante (a strong easterly wind) is blowing, you'll know about it.
Our top tips
- Walk through the pine forest for 15 minutes to discover the hidden beach of El Cañuelo, inaccessible to traffic, where nude bathing is the norm (make sure you note where the path starts/ends for your walk back)
- Visit the Roman ruins of Baelo Claudia and its state-of-the-art museum, located 10 minutes away
- Bolonia beach is great for windsurfing or kitesurfing, or saddle up for an unforgettable horseback ride along the beach to Valdevaqueros
- Head inland and discover the pristine beauty of Los Alcornocales Park: the hiking possibilities here are endless
- Take a whale- and dolphin-watching trip out from Tarifa
- Take a fast ferry to Tangier, wander the souks, drink mint tea, buy a rug - and be back in Bolonia in time for a late supper