Casa Aldomar
Xativa, Valencia & Costa Blanca, Spain
Reviewed by
Laura Collacott
Tumbling through Casa Aldomar’s ancient door from Xàtiva’s serpentine cobbled streets, you feel like Alice stepping through the looking glass. The honking and clattering outside gives way to gentle jazz and blues music, which lilts over this 18th-century home and onetime silk factory, now transformed into a tasteful guesthouse by owners Ian and Josechu.
Original features remind you that you’re in one of Spain’s most historic towns, second city of the medieval kingdom of Valencia and still an important crossroads between North and South. A huge fireplace dominates the open-plan entrance hall, dining room and sitting area, where you can commune over a game of backgammon, sip a drink from the honesty bar or leaf through a book. The backdrop is minimalist yet textural: white walls and pale concrete floors, with cowhide rugs, beachcombed shells and a vintage bike propped up in one corner. Up the steep stone stairs, the 5 simple yet comfortable guest rooms are spread over 3 levels, interspersed by 2 communal terraces. Here, in the shadow of the domed cathedral, deckchairs and an array of succulent plants create little sanctuaries where friendships between guests are frequently forged.
Original features remind you that you’re in one of Spain’s most historic towns, second city of the medieval kingdom of Valencia and still an important crossroads between North and South. A huge fireplace dominates the open-plan entrance hall, dining room and sitting area, where you can commune over a game of backgammon, sip a drink from the honesty bar or leaf through a book. The backdrop is minimalist yet textural: white walls and pale concrete floors, with cowhide rugs, beachcombed shells and a vintage bike propped up in one corner. Up the steep stone stairs, the 5 simple yet comfortable guest rooms are spread over 3 levels, interspersed by 2 communal terraces. Here, in the shadow of the domed cathedral, deckchairs and an array of succulent plants create little sanctuaries where friendships between guests are frequently forged.
Highs
- A plum location in untouristy Xàtiva, an hour south of Valencia and home to a magnificent castle. It's only a 50-minute drive from the beaches of the Costa Blanca, too
- A relaxed ambiance (be as social or as private as you want), with friendly yet discreet service
- The bijou, succulent-lined terraces, which gaze out over the dome-topped cathedral nearby
- Plenty of thoughtful touches: stacks of books and games, umbrellas by the front door, a chalk board with the daily weather forecast
- Fantastic value for money
Lows
- No children under 7 (a high for some)
- Breakfast is the only meal served and isn't included in the rate, but there are plenty of restaurants on the surrounding streets
- Rooms are fairly simple (no TVs or iPod docks), but they're very comfortable
- No parking. If you’re lucky you’ll bag a spot on the nearby square, otherwise it's every man for himself
- Note the restricted check-in times
Best time to go
We recommend visiting in spring or autumn, as the mercury can tip into the upper 30s in the peak of summer (though rooms are air-conditioned). Winters are cooler, so pack your woollies. In March, Xàtiva celebrates a pocket-sized and much more manageable version of Valencia's famous festival of Las Fallas, when giant papier-mâché statues are set alight and fireworks let off.
Our top tips
The local area is famous for its glass making, with plenty of artisan shops to browse. We bought some beautiful rustic tumblers to take home.
Xàtiva and other local towns were built for horses and carts rather than modern vehicles, and the streets can get eye-wateringly narrow. Hire a small car!
Xàtiva and other local towns were built for horses and carts rather than modern vehicles, and the streets can get eye-wateringly narrow. Hire a small car!