Reviewed by
Tom Bell
The Moors have held Borba, so too the Spanish. In its time it’s been pillaged and torched, but these days it’s known for its wine and its marble, and a sleepy peace now pervades its sun-baked streets. Wander its mazy streets to find a castle, antique shops, old churches and elaborately carved portals.
This is the place to stay in town. The historic home, which fronts a thin slip of public garden a few streets back from the main road, was once a wine-maker’s house and still has original cellars and frescoes. It’s been skilfully renovated to create a maze of antique-packed rooms that ooze history. Find a stone-vaulted sitting room with wood-burner and honesty bar, a garden pavilion for relaxing with a novel, orange and lemon trees in a nicely wild courtyard, a small saltwater pool with a sun-trapping terrace. You’re brilliantly positioned to dive into the Alentejo, so don’t miss Estremoz, the Serra de Ossa, Roman Évora or hilltop Monsaraz.
This is the place to stay in town. The historic home, which fronts a thin slip of public garden a few streets back from the main road, was once a wine-maker’s house and still has original cellars and frescoes. It’s been skilfully renovated to create a maze of antique-packed rooms that ooze history. Find a stone-vaulted sitting room with wood-burner and honesty bar, a garden pavilion for relaxing with a novel, orange and lemon trees in a nicely wild courtyard, a small saltwater pool with a sun-trapping terrace. You’re brilliantly positioned to dive into the Alentejo, so don’t miss Estremoz, the Serra de Ossa, Roman Évora or hilltop Monsaraz.
Highs
- The courtyard gardens give a sense of peace and space in the middle of town
- Characterful rooms offering flexible accommodation, from cute doubles to family-sized suites
- Borba is an endearing and handsome town and is famous for its wineries, which you can visit
- Many of the Alentejo's loveliest sights, including Évora and the palace of Vila Viçosa, are on your doorstep
- Owners João and Rita are wonderfully welcoming hosts
Lows
- There's no restaurant, but there are plenty of simple restaurants within easy walking distance
- The small pool is small and overlooked, but it's still a great place to cool off on hot summer days
- Parking here can be very tricky at times, so you may need to seek out a spot nearby
- Some of the rooms are fairly dark if there's no sun or it's raining
Best time to go
The feast of the grape is celebrated in the second week of November. If you like your wine, don’t miss it. There's also a cheese fair over Easter, a herb fair in May, and a processional festival on the third Sunday in August - but July and August can be uncomfortably hot for some.
Our top tips
The towns and villages of the Alentejo are on your doorstep - one of Portugal’s loveliest areas. Potter from town to town, stopping for regular refreshment: brilliant peasant food, wonderful earthy wines, country life at its very best. There’s so little traffic that it takes no time at all to get around. Roman Évora, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a must.