Reviewed by
Lucy Richardson
We have to pinch ourselves as we rock up at Malhadinha Nova. The sheer size and absolute tranquility of this vast 450-hectare wine estate hidden away in the depths of untouched Alentejo is intoxicating. We spot storks nesting in trees, peacocks spreading their wings, and horses roaming free. A river snakes through a forested valley on one side, and neat vine terraces stretch as far as the eye can see. We hop in a jeep and whizz off along the dusty path into the wilderness – there’s something vaguely safari-like about the whole experience.
Scattering the sprawling grounds are five plush houses, a winery, spa and a gourmet restaurant. Some of the houses are split into rooms and suites, others are rented as whole properties. You can hop between them by golf buggy, choosing to breakfast at one and lunch at another. Wine tasting is a must – reds, whites and rosés are created in the boutique on-site winery – and the dinners served in the glass-walled restaurant are unmissable (all perfectly paired with a home-produced wine, of course). The whole estate oozes exclusivity – chefs cook lunch in open kitchen-living rooms at each house, creating a sense of private dining, and you could quite easily wander the grounds and not see another soul for hours. You can just imagine the rich and famous hiding away from the world here (and I’m reliably informed they do!).
Scattering the sprawling grounds are five plush houses, a winery, spa and a gourmet restaurant. Some of the houses are split into rooms and suites, others are rented as whole properties. You can hop between them by golf buggy, choosing to breakfast at one and lunch at another. Wine tasting is a must – reds, whites and rosés are created in the boutique on-site winery – and the dinners served in the glass-walled restaurant are unmissable (all perfectly paired with a home-produced wine, of course). The whole estate oozes exclusivity – chefs cook lunch in open kitchen-living rooms at each house, creating a sense of private dining, and you could quite easily wander the grounds and not see another soul for hours. You can just imagine the rich and famous hiding away from the world here (and I’m reliably informed they do!).
Highs
- Great food, top wines, gorgeous rooms: what more could you want?
- Each house is beautifully styled and has its own unique character
- The estate's rugged landscape – rolling hills, forests, lakes, river - and roaming wildlife make it feel like a true wilderness
- The whole place has a really intimate, exclusive vibe
- You can learn how the Malhadinha wines are created and, if you like, join in with the annual grape harvest
Lows
- The off-the-beaten-track location means there isn't a huge amount to see in the area, and the coast is over an hour away
- Access to and around the farm is tricky so be sure to remember your arrival instructions, and perhaps opt for a 4x4 if you're renting a car
- We found the service at reception a little slow
- The tennis court looked quite tired on our most recent visit
Best time to go
Spring is a joy, when the fields are green and awash with wildflowers. Summer temperatures are bearable thanks to the moderating influence of the sea, but the estate gets very dry and dusty during these months. You'd be unlucky not to coincide with some clear and sunny weather in autumn or winter. It would be great to be here at the end of the summer when the grape harvest is underway - you can even join in.
Our top tips
It would be useful to have a copy of Robert Parker's wine guide, along with a Portuguese phrase book, binoculars, a detailed map of the area and a guide book describing what to see and do in Evora, which is an absolute must-visit.