We arrive at dusk, just in time for welcome drinks, a daily ritual in which Torre de Palma’s fine red and white wines are served in a tower room at sunset. The tower is 14th-century – the fortified seat of a former king – and on its castellated rooftop we savour the wine while gazing at the views: below, a courtyard of sturdy stone buildings, oranges, olives and vines, a chapel, a stable of Lusitano horses, and an inviting outdoor pool; beyond, a panorama of gentle Alentejo countryside.
In a timeline, the fortress became a farm, then a ruin and finally, after years of restoration, a magnificent design hotel with 19 stunning rooms. Its whitewashed exterior is traditional Alentejo, but there is nothing typical about the striking interiors: in a vast salon, white sofas gather around a white piano; there's a Matador room, a curious library in the tower and an outdoor lounge with an open fire. Marble, slate, cork and terracotta – all materials found on the land – contrast with playful lighting and artful collections of beautiful clutter. It’s not easy to combine agriculture, medieval history and glamour, but this sophisticated hotel has done it perfectly.
Highs
- A sublime place to kick back and do very little beyond walking, horse riding or cycling around the estate, swimming and relaxing in the spa
- Just 19 gorgeous rooms: sublimely romantic doubles and enchanting suites
- The vineyards, the winery and the excellent wines – the heart and soul of the hotel
- The gourmet Basillii restaurant, with its delicious seasonal menu of regional dishes
- Excellent service: a triumphant balance of warmth, kindness and efficiency
Lows
- It’s a bit out of the way, and local town Monforte has little to offer
- You'll need a car to get here and for day trips to national parks, Elva and Evora
- The bathrooms are more functional than designer (though we liked the heated brick floors)
Best time to go
This a genuine year-round destination – especially cosy in winter with soft candelight, log fires and Christmas decorations in December. Come in spring for orange blossom and the wildflower landscapes for which Alentejo is famous. In summer it can be fiercely hot. Visit during the vine harvest (from August through to October) and you can join in with grape picking, crushing and traditional celebrations.
Our top tips
Sign up for a wine tour, not just to test Torre de Palma’s excellent wines, but also for a lesson in Alentejo wine history. It takes you from fermenting tanks to a temperature-controlled barrel room – a spectacular ‘cathedral of wine’ – and gives a brief insight into how corks are made (Portugal is the world’s leading producer of natural cork). Afterwards, pop into the hotel’s chapel to admire the extraordinary altar piece – Jesus made entirely of cork!
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 2 independent reviews from i-escape guests
Restaurant was fantastic. Service very friendly. Rooms vast. Highly recommend rail biking in the national park near Marvao. A great way to see the natural beauty and wildlife of the area.
Perfect for a couple of nights - would probably get bored after that. Restaurant was pretty good - friendly service and great deserts. The 'house' wine wasn't bad either! Room (master suite) was spacious and nicely appointed. Annoying air conditioning though that turned itself off after about 3 hours.
Feedback is only from guests who have booked and stayed through i-escape