Reviewed by
Lucy Richardson
We fell in love with this sparkling eco-hotel in a secret corner of glorious Alentejo countryside. Nature is at the heart of everything here - from the fresh, seasonal ingredients used in the highly acclaimed kitchen, to the trendy, locally-sourced homewares in the rooms. The surrounding land has been rewilded, so expect seas of wildflowers (in spring), aromas of herbal plants wafting through the air, and a chorus of soothing birdsong. A Unesco certification made this the first Starlight Tourism Destination in the world, meaning magnificent Milky Way-filled skies follow awesome sunsets. But the real star of the show? The Alqueva Lake (Europe's largest manmade reservoir) that glistens as far as the eye can see. Take in the view from the infinity pool or from your very own private terrace (every room has one). This is heavenly stuff.
All suites are generously sized and beautifully designed with handmade interiors and those far-reaching views of the lake or countryside. Some even have their own heated plunge pools. We adored the chic and serene vibe, the muted tones and the cork and wicker touches. There are lake beaches and medieval walled towns and villages nearby – hilltop Monsaraz blew us away – as well as horse-riding, wine-tasting, biking, balloon rides and a Wellness Dome on the estate itself. Everything here is about preserving nature and traditional ways of life. We were utterly charmed. One to remember, for sure.
All suites are generously sized and beautifully designed with handmade interiors and those far-reaching views of the lake or countryside. Some even have their own heated plunge pools. We adored the chic and serene vibe, the muted tones and the cork and wicker touches. There are lake beaches and medieval walled towns and villages nearby – hilltop Monsaraz blew us away – as well as horse-riding, wine-tasting, biking, balloon rides and a Wellness Dome on the estate itself. Everything here is about preserving nature and traditional ways of life. We were utterly charmed. One to remember, for sure.
Highs
- Breathtaking sunsets seen best with a sundowner from a special picnic spot on the estate
- Staff are super-friendly and can help with everything from swimming spots to English-speaking guides
- Every room is fabulous and comes with a private terrace for soaking up the rugged views - there isn't a speck of civilisation in sight
- Marvel at the Milky Way through the telescope in the dining room or the stargazing platform outside
- This region is wild and wonderful - few tourists have discovered it, and the tiny fortified hilltop village of Monsaraz (6km away) is one of Portugal’s loveliest gems
Lows
- No twin rooms here (just doubles); and no bathtubs
- It's remote, and the nearest village is 6km away; you’ll need a car
- Pathways can be a little uneven so watch your step
- The infinity pool is designed for gentle dipping rather than vigorous swims and is unheated
- Dinner orders are taken 24 hours in advance (to save on food waste), and the restaurant is closed for dinner on Sundays and Mondays
Best time to go
It is said that this part of Alentejo gets 300 days of sunshine. We love spring (April/May) - the wildflowers are in bloom, the countryside is gloriously green and the temperature is warm and pleasant. Summer months are hot – often reaching 35-40C – but you can always cool down in the pool or lake. Come autumn, the sun still shines and temperatures are kinder. Winters are cool – typically 12-18C – and can be wet, but the hotel is cosy and warm thanks to enormous fireplaces.
Our top tips
Although you're 100 miles from the coast, this is one of Portugal's best spots for swimming and watersports, thanks to the "Great Lake" of Alqueva on your doorstep. There's a semi-developed sandy beach 10 mins' drive from the hotel and, with over 1,000km of shoreline, no end of wild swimming spots too. SUP, sailing, wakeboarding, canoe and kayak trips are all possible.