Reviewed by
Lesley Gillilan
From Africa to the Far East, this elegant yet intimate Alentejo retreat reflects the globetrotting lifestyles of owners Berny Serrão (who grew up in Mozambique) and her Australian husband Glenn Cullen. There's a definite 'on-safari' vibe to their accommodation, with a pair of outstanding bungalows-on-stilts, double rooms infused with Oriental accents, and restorative suites. As for the outdoor pool, it's straight out of a David Hockney painting (very SoCal). Yet the true spirit of Paraiso Escondido resides in the owners' love of the region they now call home: the wine and gastronomy, the ravishing landscapes, the nearness to wild Atlantic beaches, and the natural serenity.
When Berny and Glenn embarked on their ‘life project’ in 2001, there was nothing here but cork trees and eucalyptus set around a lake. They built the colonial-style villa that now accommodates most of the guests, and have since added a glassy contemporary home tucked into the hillside. There are sunny poolside terraces, lawned gardens, a cosy lounge and a large conservatory dining room - Glenn's organic kitchen garden provides ingredients for the delicious home-cooked vegetarian dinners. The couple, now brilliantly assisted by their daughter, are deeply committed to green sustainability, yet the mood is is welcoming and refreshingly informal. They really make you feel at home. On our final evening we saw a sign hanging on a wall that said, quite simply: ‘Paradise found’. We couldn't agree more.
When Berny and Glenn embarked on their ‘life project’ in 2001, there was nothing here but cork trees and eucalyptus set around a lake. They built the colonial-style villa that now accommodates most of the guests, and have since added a glassy contemporary home tucked into the hillside. There are sunny poolside terraces, lawned gardens, a cosy lounge and a large conservatory dining room - Glenn's organic kitchen garden provides ingredients for the delicious home-cooked vegetarian dinners. The couple, now brilliantly assisted by their daughter, are deeply committed to green sustainability, yet the mood is is welcoming and refreshingly informal. They really make you feel at home. On our final evening we saw a sign hanging on a wall that said, quite simply: ‘Paradise found’. We couldn't agree more.
Highs
- The hilltop setting with magnificent panoramic views over the cork forests and gentle green hills of south-west Alentejo
- Fabulous rooms, particularly the stilted bungalows with Out of Africa interiors and tree-bathing verandas
- A perfect place to do very little - sleep late, have breakfast at 11am, book a massage, read in the sunshine
- A model of green tourism: from solar-heated water to eco-friendly toiletries, sustainability is a core value
- The refreshing lack of formality: Berny and Glenn are warm, generous hosts with a knack for making you feel at home
Lows
- A car is essential to get here and the steep drive up the hill isn't for the faint-hearted
- No dinner offered on Sunday nights and the nearest decent restaurants are a 20-minute drive away
- No twin rooms
- No children under 11 allowed (a blessing for some)
- Note there are 2 resident dogs who have run of the place (though you needn't fear soppy Zulu or little Candy)
Best time to go
This is a good all-season destination, though the Alentejo countryside is at its best in spring and autumn. Visit April-June for the wildflowers, nesting storks and cool evenings. July and August can get very hot, but summer lingers long into autumn.
Our top tips
There are some brilliant places to eat in this region, particularly O Paulo at Arrifana, a cliff-top fish restaurant with a super menu and stupendous ocean views (Berny and Glenn can book ahead for you).