As we travelled ever upwards and onwards from the coast, through vineyards and forests, along increasingly twisting roads, authentic Cyprus came into view. And at last, our driver indicated we had arrived - to a unique set-up: a boutique hotel constructed across 7 dwellings in a historic village. Cascading down the hillside, with long views down the Setrachos valley, Kalopanayiotis has been a place of pilgrimage for centuries for its healing sulphur springs and the fascinating Byzantine Saint John Lampadisitis monastery. After years working abroad, John Papadouris returned to his village to find it neglected and run-down. Investing his own money, he embarked on an ambitious restoration project, not just renewing crumbling buildings, but also cultivating local produce and resurrecting cottage craft industries, thus preserving mountain culture. And creating a hotel along the way as a means of achieving all of the above.
Although more is in prospect (including a mountaintop winery and swimming pool), the results to date are wonderful: 41 immaculate hotel rooms, a choice of restaurants serving traditional Cypriot fare (and more universal options in a third), a stunning spa, and activities offering an insight into local life. After two hours strolling the village we felt at home, after two days we wanted to make it our home.
Highs
- We loved exploring the tranquil village and its valley, along cobbled pathways, alleyways and over bridges; the views are high and long
- Unique personal restoration project by the owner and his family who are still very much involved, which imbues the whole with a delightful sense of community
- Outstanding spa with treatment rooms, a snow cave, hydrotherapy pool, sauna and steam
- A good range of accommodation within 7 different 'houses' throughout the village, from studios to 2-bedroom suites, so solo travellers, couples and families are all catered for
- Smiley, friendly and unpretentious service
Lows
- It's an hour from the coast and those hair-pin bends are not for the faint-hearted (you may prefer to take a transfer as we did)
- Some may not go for the diffuse nature of the hotel, spread through the village, and prefer a more compact set up
- Some steep sections within the village but there's a mountain elevator to take you to the upper sections
- The only swimming pool is in the spa and under 16s are not permitted, an outdoor pool is planned
- Boutique hotel
- 41 rooms
- Restaurants on site
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Babysitting
- Creche / Kids Club
- Car recommended
- Parking
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Concierge Service
- Bicycles Available
Rooms
Stay in one of seven dwellings - restored houses - spread throughout the village. Two are on the upper village road, the rest dotted down the slopes of Kalopanayiotis to Byzantino restaurant. Choose between four categories of rooms and suites, varying from open-plan Comfort Studios (those below Byzantino restaurant have cute canopy beds on mezzanine floors) to Junior Suites with a private balcony or courtyard, and 2-bedroom Family Suites (in Heliako in the old town).
We stayed in Maratho (named for wild fennel), beside reception, most of whose rooms have a flower-studded courtyard or balcony, fireplace and beamed cane ceilings. Our Superior Suite had views our private balcony across rooftops to the valley beyond and a sleek contemporary shower bathroom. Details in all rooms include a nod to traditional village crafts as seen in copper bowls, carved figurines, or locally woven bedspreads.
Features include:
- Bathrobes
- Hairdryer
- In-room treatments available
- Minibar
- Safe box
- WiFi
Eating
As befits the village set-up, eateries are spread throughout Kalopanayiotis; you'll need to walk to eat at some point, wherever you're staying.
Byzantino, centrally positioned next to the 'village square', will be your first stop as the buffet breakfast is on its lower floor in the Troullino dining space. This features continental fare such as cold cuts, cheeses, yoghurts, hot dishes and baked pastries, all with a Cypriot slant (real honeycomb!), much of sourced from local mountain communities; we ate our fill on the pretty terrace enjoying those valley views. You can also opt for a well-stocked breakfast basket delivered to your room for more privacy. Everything is homemade from the pasta for traditional ravioles and pizza dough to burgers. Above is a cafe for lighter lunches (we partook the goats cheese and pomegranate salad), and adjacent restaurant for traditional dishes; from the three-course menu we liked the simply grilled chicken and smoky aubergine sides chosen from the buffet. An a la carte menu is available too.
Alternatives include elegant Loutraki grill restaurant on the upper valley road, which has great panoramic vistas of the steep-sided mountains. Further along, we had a family meal in Pantheon which serves crowd-pleasing fare such as burgers, salads, ice cream and pastas. For special celebrations you can hire out the atmospheric wine cellar and cocktail bar Cava, which has an underground dining hall.
Other eateries within the village which are not part of the hotel include Theoxenia Restaurant, Palio Cinema and Nous.
Features include:
- Bar
- Restaurant
- Restaurants nearby
- Vegetarian options
Activities
- This is a historic spa village. Pay homage in the excellent Myrianthousa Spa which has wonderful valley views, 7 treatment rooms, hydrotherapy pool and foot baths
- Take a guided walk round the village and valley for the ancient watermill, sulphur springs, the breathtaking UNESCO-listed St John Lampadistis monastery (a venerable place of pilgrimage since the 10th-century) and icon museum
- Discover the network of wonderful local nature trails, all professionally signposted, with a walking map. All the trails are old, walking or donkey trails that once connected villages and chapels & monasteries
- A great base for discovering the Troodos Mountains. Take a picnic and strike out on foot or bike for Mount Olympus, Cyprus' highest peak (1952m), with a ski resort on its northern slopes; look for the shy sheep, mouflon or agrino, unique to Cyprus
- Discover local foodie culture via a cooking class, a halloumi-making workshop, or pick your own in the orchards, meet local wine-makers
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Abseiling
- Climbing
- Cooking classes
- Fishing
- Hiking
- Historical sites
- Mountain biking
- Museums / galleries
- Plantlife / flora
- Private guided tours
- Quad biking
- Traditional cultures
- Trekking
- Well being
- Wine tasting
Best Time to go
Each season has its undoubted charms. Springtime sees a profusion of flowers and greenery on the slopes. Summers in the hills have more refreshing temperatures than those on the coast. Or walk through the valley in glorious autumn colour as we did, though temperatures do begin to plummet in the evenings. Come in winter for robust hiking and skiing on Mount Olympus.
Our Top Tips
Don't miss the monks' tour of the icon museum and UNESCO-listed Saint John Lampadisitis monastery, which has three distinct styles of fresco and an extraordinary history. We found both absolutely fascinating and the monks are so knowledgeable and friendly.
Location
Casale Panayiotis consists of several restored village buildings strung through in the small town of Kalopanayiotis, in the picturesque Troodos Mountains. Located in the centre of Cyprus, it's less than an hour by car from either Nicosia or Limassol.
By Air:
Larnaca / Larnaka (112km) and Paphos / Pafos (85km) have scheduled and charter flights from UK and Europe. Larnaca has a slightly wider range of flights. Click on the links below for a list of airlines serving these airports.
From the Airport:
Both Larnaca or Paphos are approximately an hour and a half's drive away from Kalopanayiotis (i.e. another 30 minutes on from Nicosia & Limassol respectively). Note that the distance is longer but the route is faster (on average) from Larnaca than from Paphos. You can take a taxi, book a transfer in the hotel's 7-seat shuttle bus, or hire a car - see our car rental recommendations.
Detailed directions will be sent to you when you book through i-escape.com.
More on getting to Cyprus and getting around
Airports:
- Paphos 85.0 km PFO
- Larnaca 112.0 km LCA
Other:
- Beach 42.6 km
- Shops 0.1 km
- Restaurant 0.1 km