Apokryfo
Lofou, Cyprus
Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
Apokryfo means ‘hidden’, and that’s exactly what this little gem of a boutique guesthouse is. Tucked away in the sleepy village of Lofou in the Troodos foothills, it’s the labour of love of the accomplished Cypriot architect Vakis Hadjikyriajou and his British wife Diana, a talented interior designer. In 2008 they bought a quartet of ramshackle stone houses, some without roofs, others overrun with pomegranate trees, and transformed them into 5 picture-perfect suites and 6 stylish houses for 4-9. Cosy interiors are design-mag gorgeous: every Cypriot rug and Rajasthani lamp fits perfectly.
They’re grouped around a bijou turquoise pool, with herb beds along one side, a pergola along the other, and a white wall at the end for occasional film screenings. A candlelit restaurant flanks the pool and serves superb Cypriot dinners. Relax in the sun or shade under the pomegranate trees in the secluded three-tiered garden; the rooftop terrace above has lovely views across Lofou village. The location may seem random – midway between sea and mountains, 30-45 mins from both – but don’t be put off. The village is charmingly peaceful: cobbled lanes, stone houses, 3 restaurants and a church, all set amid undulating vine terraces. There are 2 wineries within 10 mins, beaches and castles a little further, and a small but excellent spa with sauna and steam room in the basement.
They’re grouped around a bijou turquoise pool, with herb beds along one side, a pergola along the other, and a white wall at the end for occasional film screenings. A candlelit restaurant flanks the pool and serves superb Cypriot dinners. Relax in the sun or shade under the pomegranate trees in the secluded three-tiered garden; the rooftop terrace above has lovely views across Lofou village. The location may seem random – midway between sea and mountains, 30-45 mins from both – but don’t be put off. The village is charmingly peaceful: cobbled lanes, stone houses, 3 restaurants and a church, all set amid undulating vine terraces. There are 2 wineries within 10 mins, beaches and castles a little further, and a small but excellent spa with sauna and steam room in the basement.
Highs
- This is (as you may have gathered) our favourite hideaway in Cyprus: a place that works on every level, and relaxes you deeply
- The spread of mezes which the beaming chef Eleftheria delivered for dinner was the tastiest Cypriot meal of our trip
- The Schoolmaster’s House would be great for a family of 4-6, and you could put the in-laws in the adjoining Gatehouse
- In cooler months, the candlelit court (with burning brazier) is truly romantic, especially after Loukas’ massage
- There’s loads to explore nearby – forest trails and waterfalls, ancient ruins and Crusader castles – but it’s also a sublime spot to do nothing at all
Lows
- Rates are a little higher than you might expect for the room size, but when you get there you’ll see why
- The pool is unheated and enclosed; but there are loungers and it's perfect for cooling off in the baking Cypriot summer
- It’s not very toddler-friendly (though older children will be fine)
- It’s a shame the separate houses don’t have their own pools – space precludes that – but they each have a shady courtyard for alfresco dining (and it’s only a short hop to the main pool)
Best time to go
We'd recommend spring (April-May) or autumn (Sept-Oct) - pleasantly warm and not too busy. But if you're restricted to summer, this is one your best options - at 800m altitude, and with thick stone walls, air-con and a lovely pool, you'll always be several degrees cooler than in the coastal cities. Apokryfo is open all year, and for an off-season house party with anything from 5-50 guests, it could be great fun.