Cyprus is not just about beaches. It also has a rich hinterland of hilltop villages, wildflower meadows and rolling vineyards; plus there are Crusader castles, Orthodox monasteries and secret waterfalls tucked among the forested Troodos Mts. To explore them all from one easy base, we recommend staying in the largest of the wine villages above Limassol, called Arsos (no sniggering at the back; it comes from the Greek word alsos or grove). Perched at a cooling 900m above sea level, there are long views in all directions, yet it's only half an hour's drive to the beaches of Pissouri and Avdimou, or 50 mins to buzzy Paphos and Limassol.
This house - an architect's fusion of an old tailor's shop and an adjacent village home - is full of Cypriot history. In the walled courtyard, next to the delightful pool and aromatic roses, sit four huge earthenware wine jars, bulbous and ochre-red like props from a Martian sci-fi film. Inside are 500-year-old cypress beams, stone-flagged floors, recycled rocking chairs and pearl-inlaid jewel boxes from its tailor-shop days. Upstairs you'll find three good-sized bedrooms - two doubles (including an antique four poster) and a twin - plus a single in the attic. So you can come with friends, or as a family with older kids (10+), or with two families, or even as a couple - it's a very affordable and flexible retreat.
Highs
- We love the covered outdoor dining-sitting area, perfect for enjoying sociable meals and downtime
- The village has a couple of friendly tavernas for simple home-cooked Cypriot cuisine
- With nearly 300 days of sunshine per year, the pool is a godsend
- The owners have an artistic eye - think prettily painted plates, traditional rugs and doilies, beautifully restored bathroom tiles
- Good value, especially for two families, but quite affordable for one, or even for a couple
Lows
- The internal living area is fairly compact - as befits an old village home - but comfy and functional
- While there is some flexibility on arrival and departure days, Sunday-Sunday is generally preferred in summer
- There's no air-con in the living rooms, just ceiling fans, but it is a few degrees cooler up here
- You'll need a car to explore
Best time to go
The house is open all year, and most popular from May-September thanks to its pool and its elevation (which tempers summer heatwaves a fraction). If you're not tied to school holidays, we think May is ideal for spring flowers and hikes; September for the Palouze wine festival over the last weekend of the month. Otherwise, any of the main holidays - Easter, summer or October half-term - are equally good. And, with central heating plus a toasty fireplace, it's a great winter hideaway or workcation venue too.
Our top tips
Grapes and wine are at the heart of the village: taste ruby-red xynisteri and brandy-like zivania, chew on soutzioukko and epsima biscuits, visit the local wine museum. Or follow trails through vine-covered hills: one starts from near the house; another heads to the stream and stone bridge of Tzelefos for a cooling summer dip.