You could be forgiven for wondering where the Serra da Estrela is - it's not explored by many tourists, not even the Portuguese. But this vast National Park's rugged beauty - 2,000-metre limestone peaks, mossy waterfalls, granite caves, crystalline river pools - make it amply worth the detour inland. It's in Portugal's central highlands, 300km north of Lisbon, 175km south of Porto, and the rivers Mondego, Zezere and Alva all have their source here.
Constructed from old shepherd's cottages in 3 lawned tiers on the side of a terraced hill overlooking a swimming pool and courtyard, the hotel is perched above the village of Lapa dos Dinheiros ('Treasure Cave'), with fabulous views across the valleys and peaks. Inside you'll find stylish and bright bedrooms - some with jacuzzi tubs, walls of rough stone and smooth whitewash, neutral modern colours. And after a day of trekking, cycling, village touring or river swimming, the high-end spa with its sauna and steam bath will leave you in the pink. For those seeking contemporary comfort and delicious food in an unspoilt mountain retreat, this is a perfect find.
Highs
- The stylish interiors are an unexpected find in such a rustic and remote location
- Cosy living rooms (firelit in winter, beautifully cool in summer) showcase local sculptures and paintings
- The sleek dining room and sunny poolside terrace offer the best in regional and home-grown cuisine
- 100,000 hectares of National Park on your doorstep
- The heavenly spa provides all you need to fully detox and decompress
- A great place to escape with a loved one, with friends, or with the family: several suites sleep 4, or check out their separate village houses
Lows
- Access is tricky: from the A1 at Coimbra it's all country roads, which get narrower as you go up, especially when you reach the village
- We found it slightly rabbit-warreny in its layout - necessitated by its village setting on terraced hillsides
- It can be cold and misty up here at 750m altitude (though rarely in midsummer)
Best time to go
If you're planning to walk, spring or autumn is the best time of year to be here. But the village's soaring elevation ensures it remains cool enough for hiking to be enjoyable in summer, too. And don't forget that you're just a 30-minute drive from Portugal's most popular ski resort: most years you can expect heavy snowfalls in both February and March.
Our top tips
After a day of relaxation we recommend taking a walk to the river beach “Praia fluvial Lapa dos Dinheiros” (20min walk) in the middle of the Serra da Estrela. Here you can take a dip in the refreshing water which is also a blue flag beach and a little café for some snacks.
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 2 independent reviews from i-escape guests
Really beautiful setting, quiet and remote.
Our stay was excellent. We loved the location but the drive to the hotel was quite challenging! Once there the views were incredible and the hotel was beautiful, three pools, very child friendly with excellent food and we really liked the extra touches such as free yoga and welcome drink but also free lemonade and cake at tea time. The staff were all lovely and very friendly and accommodating. Overall good value for what you get.
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