At the top of a steep, winding road, in a remote mountain village, these two stylishly restored stone cottages – both with two bedrooms and two bathrooms – are the perfect hillside retreat. With breathtaking views, an infinity pool, sun loungers, hammocks, and easy access to gourmet meals, we didn’t mind feeling cut off from the rest of the world. We could happily start every day gorging on a hand-delivered breakfast hamper, with the sounds of singing from the nearby church drifting over on a cool breeze. It’s an idyllic spot for nature buffs and adventure lovers, with numerous treks on the doorstep. And because the cottages sleep up to six people each (and are pet friendly) they’re the perfect getaway for the whole family.
The Serra da Estrela may not feature large on the tourist map of Portugal, but we love its granite-topped summits, its mossy valleys and pine forests, its pristine praias fluviais (river pools), and its endless supply of fresh mountain air. We can see why Maria Manuel, a university lecturer in pharmaceutical chemistry, fell in love with it over 20 years ago. She and her husband first set about rebuilding what eventually became the well regarded Casas da Lapa hotel; and later these cottages a five minute walk away, which piggyback on the hotel's concierge service and, even more delightfully, its restaurant and spa.
Highs
- The view from the swimming pool is surely the best in Serra da Estrela
- Breakfast is delivered to your door each morning – an indulgent touch for a self-catering cottage
- You can wander down to their sister hotel for 5-course gourmet dinners that change daily
- Scenic hikes (or, if brave enough to tackle the hills, bike rides) to nearby waterfalls and granite-topped summits are right on your doorstep
- The 'fluvial beaches' are just a drive away for wild swimming in the pristine headwaters of the Zazere, Mondego and Alva rivers
Lows
- The pool and gardens are shared between two houses (if you really want to ensure they're yours alone, you could book both houses)
- The gardens are steeply terraced, with lots of steps
- The roads into the village are very narrow and steep, so accessibility and driving can be a bit of a challenge
- It can be wetter, and occasionally cloudy, up here at 750m altitude
- The cottages are self-catering and there isn't much around so be sure to come prepared if you plan on eating in a lot
Best time to go
If you're planning to be active, spring (mid April to early June) or autumn (September-October) are the best times to be here. If river swimming, pool plunges and détente cordiale are more your style, then July-August is perfect, and the 750m elevation ensures it remains relatively cool even in midsummer. The pool is generally usable from June-September. For snow-scapes and possible skiing, January-March are an option: the houses are open all year, with log burners to keep you toasty.
Our top tips
Combine a stay here with a couple of days in Lisbon or Porto on the way here (or better still, one on the way in, and the other on the way out), and you have a ready-made Portuguese holiday that offers a rare insight into both faces of this fascinating and friendly country.
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 2 independent reviews from i-escape guests
Feedback is only from guests who have booked and stayed through i-escape