At the top of a steep, winding road, in a remote mountain village, these two stylishly restored stone cottages – both with two bedrooms and two bathrooms – are the perfect hillside retreat. With breathtaking views, an infinity pool, sun loungers, hammocks, and easy access to gourmet meals, we didn’t mind feeling cut off from the rest of the world. We could happily start every day gorging on a hand-delivered breakfast hamper, with the sounds of singing from the nearby church drifting over on a cool breeze. It’s an idyllic spot for nature buffs and adventure lovers, with numerous treks on the doorstep. And because the cottages sleep up to six people each (and are pet friendly) they’re the perfect getaway for the whole family.
The Serra da Estrela may not feature large on the tourist map of Portugal, but we love its granite-topped summits, its mossy valleys and pine forests, its pristine praias fluviais (river pools), and its endless supply of fresh mountain air. We can see why Maria Manuel, a university lecturer in pharmaceutical chemistry, fell in love with it over 20 years ago. She and her husband first set about rebuilding what eventually became the well regarded Casas da Lapa hotel; and later these cottages a five minute walk away, which piggyback on the hotel's concierge service and, even more delightfully, its restaurant and spa.
Highs
- The view from the swimming pool is surely the best in Serra da Estrela
- Breakfast is delivered to your door each morning – an indulgent touch for a self-catering cottage
- You can wander down to their sister hotel for 5-course gourmet dinners that change daily
- Scenic hikes (or, if brave enough to tackle the hills, bike rides) to nearby waterfalls and granite-topped summits are right on your doorstep
- The 'fluvial beaches' are just a drive away for wild swimming in the pristine headwaters of the Zazere, Mondego and Alva rivers
Lows
- The pool and gardens are shared between two houses (if you really want to ensure they're yours alone, you could book both houses)
- The gardens are steeply terraced, with lots of steps
- The roads into the village are very narrow and steep, so accessibility and driving can be a bit of a challenge
- It can be wetter, and occasionally cloudy, up here at 750m altitude
- The cottages are self-catering and there isn't much around so be sure to come prepared if you plan on eating in a lot
Best time to go
If you're planning to be active, spring (mid April to early June) or autumn (September-October) are the best times to be here. If river swimming, pool plunges and détente cordiale are more your style, then July-August is perfect, and the 750m elevation ensures it remains relatively cool even in midsummer. The pool is generally usable from June-September. For snow-scapes and possible skiing, January-March are an option: the houses are open all year, with log burners to keep you toasty.
Our top tips
Combine a stay here with a couple of days in Lisbon or Porto on the way here (or better still, one on the way in, and the other on the way out), and you have a ready-made Portuguese holiday that offers a rare insight into both faces of this fascinating and friendly country.
- Mountain cottages
- 2 cottages for 4
- Self-catering; meals available
- All ages welcome
- Open all year
- Outdoor Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car essential
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Daily Maid Service
- Towels & Bedlinen
- Concierge Service
- Bicycles Available
Smaller cottage
The smaller of the two cottages has a bright living-dining area, with white-faced kitchen units (including a retro Smeg fridge) and offset by vivid red accents and transparent Ghost dining chairs. Warmth comes from a woodburning stove and some colourful accessories. You get the basics for cooking up simple meals, including a hob, oven, fridge, microwave and toaster, plus a dishwasher; but don't expect a huge range of utensils, pots or crockery. That said, it's only a short walk to their sister hotel where you can tuck into 5-course gourmet dinners without lifting a finger (and they'll deliver yummy breakfast items each morning, too).
Upstairs are two bedrooms, one of which can be set up with twin beds if preferred. Expect comfy mattresses, ensuite shower rooms and bathrobes.
Larger cottage
The larger of the two cottages, where we stayed, is more rustic in feel, with exposed stone walls in its cosy living-dining room, alongside eye-catching artworks and a quirky spiral bookshelf by Kartell. The kitchen is all clean lines and gleaming cooking units - hob, sink and (eye-level) oven - plus a Smeg fridge, toaster, dishwasher and microwave. Again it's not designed for cheffing up multi-course dinners (head to the hotel for those), but it's more than adequate; and you get a daily breakfast delivery including local cheeses, freshly baked bread and still warm cake.
The bedrooms here are both doubles, and both bathrooms have rainfall showers.
Activities
- Explore the Serra da Estrela's uniquely primitive landscape of glacial valleys, granite outcrops, hidden waterfalls and mixed chestnut- and black oak forests: there are signed hikes, and bikes can be arranged
- In summer, swim at one of the 8 fluvial beaches near the village: we loved the wonderfully invigorating pure mountain water
- The town of Seia (7km) has a Visitor Centre, a Toy Museum and a Bread Museum; Gouveia has a zoo; Belmonte a museum recalling the rich Jewish heritage and the local woollen industry
- Further afield, in the spectacular Covao da Ametade (50 mins' drive), the crystal clear headwaters of the river Zezere emerge among silver beeches and the triple peaks of the rocky Cântaros
- The caves of Moura and Suma also are worth visiting; try your hand at abseiling nearby
- Discover the stunning villages of Liñhares and Piódão, and the crumbling castles which dot the landscape
- After all that exertion, book yourself a massage and sauna session at their sister hotel
Kids
Children of all ages are welcome in both cottages and it is possible to add extra beds so a family of up to 6 in each cottage. That said, it's not ideal for toddlers given the terraced gardens and internal steps (no stair gates). Owners Nuno and Maria Manuel know the best (short) hikes, caves and river swims for younger guests. It is a long drive from the airport, but once you get here there is plenty to do for all the family.
Best for:
Babies (0-1 years), Children (4-12 years)
Family friendly accommodation:
The smaller cottage usually works better for a family as it has 1 double and 1 twin bedroom.
Cots Available
Kids Activities nearby:
- Historical towns to visit
- River swimming
- Skiing and snowboarding in the winter
- Cycling
- Maria Manuel can recommend child-friendly walks
- Toy museum in Seia
- Zoo in Gouveia
Distances:
- Airport: 2 hours
- Hospital: 15 minutes
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
The cottages are in the small village of Lapa dos Dinheiros, high on the slopes of the Serra da Estrela mountain range. The nearest big town, Seia, is 7km away.
By Air
Fly to Porto / Oporto (175km, 2+ hours' drive) or Lisbon (300km, 4 hours' drive); the latter has more flights. Both driving routes are very scenic; you don't want to rush, or drive at night. It is also possible to fly into Madrid in Spain, and drive via Salamanca (perhaps overnighting there).
From the Airport
You'll need to hire a car as the village is remote, with no public transport links.
Detailed directions will be sent when you book through i-escape.
Airports:
- Oporto 175.0 km OPO
- Lisbon 300.0 km LIS
Other:
- Beach 150.0 km
- Shops 7.0 km
- Restaurant 7.0 km
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 2 independent reviews from i-escape guests
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