The Estrela Mountain Hideaway

Smaller cottage

The smaller of the two cottages has a bright living-dining area, with white-faced kitchen units (including a retro Smeg fridge) and offset by vivid red accents and transparent Ghost dining chairs. Warmth comes from a woodburning stove and some colourful accessories. You get the basics for cooking up simple meals, including a hob, oven, fridge, microwave and toaster, plus a dishwasher; but don't expect a huge range of utensils, pots or crockery. That said, it's only a short walk to their sister hotel where you can tuck into 5-course gourmet dinners without lifting a finger (and they'll deliver yummy breakfast items each morning, too).

Upstairs are two bedrooms, one of which can be set up with twin beds if preferred. Expect comfy mattresses, ensuite shower rooms and bathrobes.

Larger cottage

The larger of the two cottages, where we stayed, is more rustic in feel, with exposed stone walls in its cosy living-dining room, alongside eye-catching artworks and a quirky spiral bookshelf by Kartell. The kitchen is all clean lines and gleaming cooking units - hob, sink and (eye-level) oven - plus a Smeg fridge, toaster, dishwasher and microwave. Again it's not designed for cheffing up multi-course dinners (head to the hotel for those), but it's more than adequate; and you get a daily breakfast delivery including local cheeses, freshly baked bread and still warm cake.

The bedrooms here are both doubles, and both bathrooms have rainfall showers.

Activities

• Explore the Serra da Estrela's uniquely primitive landscape of glacial valleys, granite outcrops, hidden waterfalls and mixed chestnut- and black oak forests: there are signed hikes, and bikes can be arranged
  
• In summer, swim at one of the 8 fluvial beaches near the village: we loved the wonderfully invigorating pure mountain water
  
• The town of Seia (7km) has a Visitor Centre, a Toy Museum and a Bread Museum; Gouveia has a zoo; Belmonte a museum recalling the rich Jewish heritage and the local woollen industry
  
• Further afield, in the spectacular Covao da Ametade (50 mins' drive), the crystal clear headwaters of the river Zezere emerge among silver beeches and the triple peaks of the rocky Cântaros
  
• The caves of Moura and Suma also are worth visiting; try your hand at abseiling nearby
  
• Discover the stunning villages of Liñhares and Piódão, and the crumbling castles which dot the landscape
  
• After all that exertion, book yourself a massage and sauna session at their sister hotel

Kids

Children of all ages are welcome in both cottages and it is possible to add extra beds so a family of up to 6 in each cottage. That said, it's not ideal for toddlers given the terraced gardens and internal steps (no stair gates). Owners Nuno and Maria Manuel know the best (short) hikes, caves and river swims for younger guests. It is a long drive from the airport, but once you get here there is plenty to do for all the family.

Best for:

Babies (0-1 years), Children (4-12 years)

Family friendly accommodation:

The smaller cottage usually works better for a family as it has 1 double and 1 twin bedroom.

Cots Available

Distances:

• Airport: 2 hours
• Hospital: 15 minutes

For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection

Location

The cottages are in the small village of Lapa dos Dinheiros, high on the slopes of the Serra da Estrela mountain range. The nearest big town, Seia, is 7km away.

By Air
Fly to Porto / Oporto (175km, 2+ hours' drive) or Lisbon (300km, 4 hours' drive); the latter has more flights. Both driving routes are very scenic; you don't want to rush, or drive at night. It is also possible to fly into Madrid in Spain, and drive via Salamanca (perhaps overnighting there).

From the Airport
You'll need to hire a car as the village is remote, with no public transport links.

Detailed directions will be sent when you book through i-escape.