Reviewed by
Michael Cullen
Think of Tuscany and you probably picture a romantic landscape of rolling hills, vineyards and olive groves, with fairytale castles sitting atop wooded hills. That’s Chianti in a nutshell. Now imagine yourself staying in one of these castles, enjoying delicious home cooking, locally-produced wine and lavishly furnished bedrooms. That’s the Castello di Tornano in a nutshell.
This castle-hamlet is the country home of the Selvolini family, who for years have offered simple suites in the outhouses, and who more recently converted the main castle and tower to provide sumptuous guest rooms, including some fit-for-a-princess suites in the main tower. The surrounding countryside should inspire you to try some of the activities on offer: walks, tennis and cycling. If you’re feeling less energetic there is a swimming pool (unheated) built into the castle moat, plus a terrace where you can watch the sun set - ideally with one hand around your beloved and the other around a glass of Chianti.
This castle-hamlet is the country home of the Selvolini family, who for years have offered simple suites in the outhouses, and who more recently converted the main castle and tower to provide sumptuous guest rooms, including some fit-for-a-princess suites in the main tower. The surrounding countryside should inspire you to try some of the activities on offer: walks, tennis and cycling. If you’re feeling less energetic there is a swimming pool (unheated) built into the castle moat, plus a terrace where you can watch the sun set - ideally with one hand around your beloved and the other around a glass of Chianti.
Highs
- A great sense of arrival, bumping through wooded hills to a rock-top castle - especially when it's lit up at night
- Very comfortable, historic accommodation, for both couples and families
- Lots to do in and around the estate - tennis, trekking, cycling, wine-tasting - while Siena is only 30 minutes away
- Really delightful staff, and a refreshingly down-to-earth atmosphere (not always the case in restored Tuscan castelli)
- Lovely meals using fresh ingredients produced on the estate, and the cooking lessons get rave reviews
Lows
- You’ll need a car - the nearest village is 6km away
- Some bedrooms are dark and rather old-fashioned, while the sitting rooms feel rather formal (we can't imagine lounging there with a glossy magazine)
- The drive is a steep gravel track (can be tricky in winter) and the castle can be hard to find
- The dinner menu can be limited out of season, and (as often in Italy) the breakfast buffet is short on savouries
Best time to go
The hotel is closed November through March. Summer in Tuscany is busy, but this is a haven from the crowds and heat (the pool helps). If you are planning to do some sightseeing then May-June or September-October will have fewer tourists yet reliably good weather. In the autumn you get the added benefit of the vendemmia, plus the gold/red colours of the turning vine leaves. The castello is ideal for a cosy winter break, though of course the pool is out of action.
Radda’s wine festival is the last weekend in May - where you can taste over 50 wines. Greve’s wine festival is the second weekend in September, with food and dancing to boot.
Radda’s wine festival is the last weekend in May - where you can taste over 50 wines. Greve’s wine festival is the second weekend in September, with food and dancing to boot.
Our top tips
In the 19th century the castle belonged to Barone Ricasoli, Italy’s second premier and a renowned wine producer - it was he who developed the blend that became the Chianti we know and love today. The present owners have revived this tradition by farming 15 hectares of vineyards to produce thousands of bottles of Chianti (called Chianti Classico Castello di Tornano) per year. One of these will be served with your dinner each night, and you can buy the others, plus olive oil, vin santo and grappa (distilled from the residue of the wine-making process) from reception.