Talk about remote. As we drove along ever-narrowing roads in the beautiful Tuscan hills, we began to wonder if we’d missed a turning for this hidden rural retreat. Then suddenly it appeared. Turning a corner, the magnificent salmon-pink walls came into view, backdropped against a cobalt-blue sky and surrounded by tall green cypress trees. Co-founded by Russian art consultant Lena Evstafieva, Villa Lena is a fascinating hybrid of hotel, organic farm and not-for profit artists' colony. Its 19th-century outhouses have been carefully renovated to create 18 rooms plus 5 apartments and a few self-contained houses dotted across the 500-hectare wooded estate, with spectacular views in all directions.
Guests share the space with artists-in-residence, who stay here for a month-long creative retreat, and in return lead diverse talks and workshops. The main pool and restaurant are the heart of everything, a place to all come together and share stories over farm-to-table meals. We loved being swept up in the easy boho vibe of the place; you're continually interacting with the ethos of the Villa, joining debates, admiring donated art on the walls, perhaps listening to a candelit performance in the piano room. A rare find.
Highs
- Inspirational workshops and talks with resident creatives, who may be painters, poets, photographers, conceptual artists, designers, botanists, poets, even meditation dancers
- We loved watching the mist rise from the valley during morning stretches on the yoga deck
- Although this is a sociable place, the accommodation is so spread out that it's easy to find peace and privacy if you need it
- Great for families: the Renacchi apartments share a separate pool and playground, and there's a cinema and games room. Bikes to borrow, too
- The Slow Food is an explosion of colour and flavour - there are chefs-in-residence, too
Lows
- Remote. Nothing in walking distance and not for those seeking a buzzing nightlife on holiday
- The children’s splash pool is right next to the main pool and bar area, and excited little ones can get noisy
- Guests in Renacchi apartments, Casetta Bella and Maison Stento have a 10/20-minute (albeit beautiful) walk to the restaurant, or will need to drive
- Rates are on the higher side but do include some creative workshops
Best time to go
Villa Lena opens annually in early-April, when the poppies start to bloom and the weather reaches perfect T-shirt-in-the-evening temperatures. Easter sees lots of special (mostly child-friendly) activities, including a Mad Hatter Afternoon Tea Party (with magical cakes and pastries) and Easter Egg Hunts. The shoulder seasons (May, June, Sept, Oct) are perfect for exploring the wooded estate, with beautiful wild flowers and wine tastings respectively.
Summer brings the heat and tourists to Tuscany, but Villa Lena feels like the region’s best-kept secret. High in the hills and away from the crowds, its cool rooms and poolside bar give respite from the sun - and they throw a mean Ferragosto pool party! In the colder months there's a secret Winter Bar with a wood-fired stove, cocktails and a speak-easy vibe; October-November is also prime truffle time. Villa Lena normally closes from December to March.
Summer brings the heat and tourists to Tuscany, but Villa Lena feels like the region’s best-kept secret. High in the hills and away from the crowds, its cool rooms and poolside bar give respite from the sun - and they throw a mean Ferragosto pool party! In the colder months there's a secret Winter Bar with a wood-fired stove, cocktails and a speak-easy vibe; October-November is also prime truffle time. Villa Lena normally closes from December to March.
Our top tips
Walk 20 minutes up the hill to the abandoned village of Toiano. Eerily quiet – bar the occasional stray cat – views from this deserted place are spectacular. Go early morning or late afternoon to avoid the heat, though the stroll there takes you along shady lanes lined with wild flowers in spring and blackberries in late summer.
Make the most of the villa's activities and workshops (some of which are free to join): when you book, ask what's on and be sure to reserve in advance for the ones you like the sound of.
Make the most of the villa's activities and workshops (some of which are free to join): when you book, ask what's on and be sure to reserve in advance for the ones you like the sound of.
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 1 independent review from i-escape guests
Feedback is only from guests who have booked and stayed through i-escape