Chateau de La Barre
Pays de Loire, Pays de la Loire, France
Reviewed by
Liz Simpson
The fact that so many of Château de la Barre’s guests are return visitors says it all: this place is a real find. Set amongst 100 acres of private parkland and fragrant gardens, the elegant château has been in the de Vanssay family since the 14th century and still has its ancient moat fortifications. Inside, the heritage is evident: wall tapestries, ancestral portraits and endless antiques. It’s full of heirlooms you’d normally see in a museum – but here you can eat from the priceless china, walk on centuries-old Persian rugs, even sleep in a Louis XVI bed.
But what makes this place really special is your hosts, the Comte and Comtesse de Vanssay. They’re the 20th generation of Vanssays to live here and want their home to be a place where guests can experience a true ‘aristocratic holiday'. On arrival you’ll enjoy afternoon tea in the elegant lounge; dinner is a 4-course feast served en famille in the Grand Dining Hall. By day you can ride, play billiards and croquet, try archery or head off to the magnificent Loire châteaux. Seize your chance to see how the other half live – and live it with them.
But what makes this place really special is your hosts, the Comte and Comtesse de Vanssay. They’re the 20th generation of Vanssays to live here and want their home to be a place where guests can experience a true ‘aristocratic holiday'. On arrival you’ll enjoy afternoon tea in the elegant lounge; dinner is a 4-course feast served en famille in the Grand Dining Hall. By day you can ride, play billiards and croquet, try archery or head off to the magnificent Loire châteaux. Seize your chance to see how the other half live – and live it with them.
Highs
- Regal bedrooms, with traditional Toile de Jouy fabric covering the walls and antique furniture (plus power showers for 21st-century comfort); several combine to make vast suites
- Excellent formal dinners, complemented by carefully chosen wines from the family cellar
- Within easy driving distance of several châteaux, 12th-century Romanesque churches and the Loire vineyards
- Welcoming yet down-to-earth hosts: Guy is a writer and wine connoisseur, while Marnie is a mine of information on French history and the château's antiques
- For a bit more independence, book one of the self-catering apartments (note there's a 7 night minimum booking requirement)
Lows
- Dinner and suppers require prior reservation
- You're somewhat off the beaten track, halfway between Chartres and the Loire Valley (about an hour from each)
- Don't expect cool, contemporary décor – this is splendour of the plushest kind
Best time to go
Any time of year. If you're a keen walker, the shoulder months (April, May and September) offer great weather without oppressive heat. If you're a sun seeker, book in during June, July and August and take life at a slow pace - perfect picnic and wine tasting weather! Some festivals (sound and light shows in Le Mans and Loire valley châteaux) and smaller castles may only be open in July and August. In winter, the château becomes a gloriously romantic bolthole. It's open almost all year, and privately booked for the Le Mans week every year (mid June).
Our top tips
The château is a perfect place to visit a deux and indulge in a weekend of French fine living – dressing for dinner is de rigueur so pack a couple of suitably smart outfits (no trainers, athleisure wear or jeans for example).