Chateau de Saint Paterne
Near Alencon, Pays de la Loire, France
Reviewed by
Cathy Teesdale
This beautifully restored Renaissance chateau, in the Alençon satellite village of Saint Paterne, was once home to a mistress of the French King Henry IV. Since today's owner Charles-Henry de Valbray inherited it in 1989, as a long-abandoned shell, he and his wife Ségolène have spent 3 decades restoring it with many an authentic period flourish and lashings of eclectic charm. Both speak excellent English and live in the 18th-century-added wing, so they may join you in the Dangerous-Liaisons-style Grand Salon or out on the terrace for pre-dinner aperitifs and ensure you feel right at home.
Each of the chateau bedrooms has been elegantly and distinctly designed (many furnished with swagged 4-posters and free-standing tubs), and couples will love the romantic L’Orangerie in the garden and Datcha larch chalet hidden in the woods. The 25-acre garden has vast sweeping lawns, lots of outdoor games, play areas and a swimming pool so it's also a great place for families, especially in summer. Food served up in-chateau is thoroughly delicious - and good value, too.
Each of the chateau bedrooms has been elegantly and distinctly designed (many furnished with swagged 4-posters and free-standing tubs), and couples will love the romantic L’Orangerie in the garden and Datcha larch chalet hidden in the woods. The 25-acre garden has vast sweeping lawns, lots of outdoor games, play areas and a swimming pool so it's also a great place for families, especially in summer. Food served up in-chateau is thoroughly delicious - and good value, too.
Highs
- Its location - 70 miles south of the port of Caen, 100 miles west of Paris - is great for stopovers, or longer stays to explore the Loire Valley, Chartres, Le Mans and the Perche region
- All the beautiful boho-chic bedroom choices, design touches and historical features
- The warm intelligence and enthusiasm of Charles-Henry and Ségolène, and the feel of staying in a historic family home
- The delicious homely food - and the trouble taken to record menus by date to make sure you won't have the same one when you come back!
- The romantic bathrooms, some with tub-mounted candles and champagne flutes; help yourself to fizz from the honesty bar
Lows
- Lunch is not served at the chateau but poolside you'll find a fridge filled with cool drinks and ice creams and there is a boulangerie nearby
- Dinners are a set menu, though this changes daily and dietary requirements can be catered for
- There's no room service as such, but private breakfasts can be organised by special request
- There's no supervision at the pool so you'll need to keep an eye on any swimming children yourself, and it's worth climbing the Datcha's and Chambre du Parc's fun loft ladders with care
Best time to go
The chateau is normally open from mid-March to mid-December. All the seasons have their own garden and weather pleasures. Summers are obviously lovely and August is the busiest period, when most families come to stay. The wood-burning stove, outdoor Jacuzzi and sauna in the Datcha mean we'd love to stay there when it's snowing.