Chateau des Pensees
Near Sarlat, Dordogne & Lot, France
Reviewed by
Abigail Blasi
Plenty of French aristocrats have opened their family castles as grandiose guesthouses, but this one has wow-factor in spades. The owner is Cyril de Commarque, an installation artist married to Ortensia Visconti, daughter of the director Eriprando Visconti (nephew to cinematic royalty Luchino). The medieval castle has been in the family for more than 700 years, falling into disrepair until this generation decided to renovate it into an artistic, reflective sanctuary (hence its name, the Chateau of Thoughts), where open-minded guests can be inspired by utopian surroundings. These include 500 hectares of oak, walnut and chestnut trees, a garden with 250 species of rose, ancient woodland and the nodding wheat fields of the Dordogne countryside.
Behind the limestone walls and classic blue shutters are extraordinary interiors which brim with wonderful things, from a glass wall filled with Ming vases to beaded south African sculpture. The chateau doesn’t feel like a hotel at all, rather that you’re a guest of the (usually absent) counts of Commarque. Six superbly eclectic suites boast vast beds and original artworks, bold colours and amusing details. They’re a stunning interplay of old and new, both opulent and chic at the same time. The communal rooms downstairs are equally spectacular, with a neon flower and mirrored walls, work-of-art vintage sofas, and a dining room with Murano chandelier whose glass resembles a red feather boa. Dinner can be provided by the resident chef, chambre d’hôte-style.
Families or groups can rent out the whole chateau or one of its wings, while two rustic outhouses (for 2-12) are tucked away within the estate.
Behind the limestone walls and classic blue shutters are extraordinary interiors which brim with wonderful things, from a glass wall filled with Ming vases to beaded south African sculpture. The chateau doesn’t feel like a hotel at all, rather that you’re a guest of the (usually absent) counts of Commarque. Six superbly eclectic suites boast vast beds and original artworks, bold colours and amusing details. They’re a stunning interplay of old and new, both opulent and chic at the same time. The communal rooms downstairs are equally spectacular, with a neon flower and mirrored walls, work-of-art vintage sofas, and a dining room with Murano chandelier whose glass resembles a red feather boa. Dinner can be provided by the resident chef, chambre d’hôte-style.
Families or groups can rent out the whole chateau or one of its wings, while two rustic outhouses (for 2-12) are tucked away within the estate.
Highs
- This is a magnificent C13th chateau, with truly vast suites (60-90 sq.m.), lots of sitting spaces, and magnificent gardens
- We loved the time-suspended, splendour-filled atmosphere, which felt as if we’d wandered on to a Fellini set
- The setting is hidden and totally tranquil, with the freedom to roam the endless grounds as if you're a friend of the family
- Fabulous décor in the main suites blends diverse sculpture and contemporary art with the ancient bones of the chateau
- You're in the heart of the beautiful Dordogne, near historical Sarlat, medieval villages and prehistoric cave art
Lows
- This is not a full-service hotel: staff are not around 24/7 (but always contactable by phone or Whatsapp)
- Limited phone reception, partial WiFi coverage, and no TVs (if you've read this far, this is probably a high for you)
- We'd say a car is essential; you'll need to drive to reach restaurants (2-7km)
- The Fournial wing is more old-fashioned than the main wing; check the photos when booking
Best time to go
Although the Dordogne fills up from early July through to late August, if you stay put here, it will feel as if the outside world has ceased to exist. But you’d see plenty of other people if you were to head out sightseeing or to eat. Either end of the summer would be an ideal time to make full use of the pool but the chateau is open year-round.
Our top tips
If you're interested in wines, ask when making your reservation about the best local vineyards and wines, and make sure to book a tour in advance.
Leave plenty of time to swim and sunbathe by the chateau's lovely pool; and don't miss the beautiful 13th-century church in Urval, just 1km away.
Leave plenty of time to swim and sunbathe by the chateau's lovely pool; and don't miss the beautiful 13th-century church in Urval, just 1km away.