The Watermill
near Sarlat, Dordogne & Lot, France
Reviewed by
Guy Hunter Watts
Hidden away in a wooded valley above the Dordogne, within the estate of a formidable historic Chateau, there can be few such dreamily bucolic settings as this. Arriving by way of the narrowest of lanes to see the low gabled roofs of a former walnut press and a nearby tobacco barn feels like a Proustian rediscovery of Temps Perdu.
Drawing on the combined sensibilities of the Commarque family, who have welcomed guests to their hilltop chateau for many years, the two buildings have been refashioned into rustic, country escapes. There's an inspirational six-bedroom hideaway with a heated pool (The Watermill) and a simpler, off-grid, more remote one-bedroom retreat (Tobacco Barn). Each is set 10 minutes' walk from the main chateau, and 10 minutes' walk from one another. Inside, you'll find a clean-cut decorative mix of antiques with chunky rough-hewn wooden furniture, chalky-grey screed floors, bright kilims, masses of cut flowers and views out to the valley that create a mood that is both understated and uplifting. If you're in search of calme et comfort and prefer self-catering to catered-for, this is about as good as it gets.
Drawing on the combined sensibilities of the Commarque family, who have welcomed guests to their hilltop chateau for many years, the two buildings have been refashioned into rustic, country escapes. There's an inspirational six-bedroom hideaway with a heated pool (The Watermill) and a simpler, off-grid, more remote one-bedroom retreat (Tobacco Barn). Each is set 10 minutes' walk from the main chateau, and 10 minutes' walk from one another. Inside, you'll find a clean-cut decorative mix of antiques with chunky rough-hewn wooden furniture, chalky-grey screed floors, bright kilims, masses of cut flowers and views out to the valley that create a mood that is both understated and uplifting. If you're in search of calme et comfort and prefer self-catering to catered-for, this is about as good as it gets.
Highs
- These are no ordinary gites: they're unique homes created with oodles of warmth and character
- The biggest luxury is the setting: as peaceful, private and pastoral as you could hope to find
- The Watermill has all you need for self-catering in style: a big kitchen, lovely outdoor dining areas and the produce of the Perigord
- And its high-ceilinged sitting room provides a diaphanous focus for life at the mill house
- You're at the heart of one the most beautiful regions of France
Lows
- Bear in mind that The Watermill is minimal and sparse in style - some guests feel too much so, given the prices
- And that the Tobacco Barn is an off-grid getaway - no TV, heating, drinkable water or hot water in the kitchen, and no private pool (but The Watermill has all of the above)
- A car is a necessity given the relative isolation
- Minimum stays (3-7 nights) apply in peak months, but these can be flexible depending on availability
Best time to go
Although the Dordogne fills up from early July through to mid August, if you hunkered down here, it would be as if the world outside had ceased to exist. But you’d see plenty of other folk if you were to head out sightseeing or to eat. Either end of the summer would be an ideal time to come so as to make full use of the pool.
Our top tips
Stock up on food and drink on your way to the barn, as it's quite remote. There is no shortage of indulgent local delicacies - truffles, ceps, foie gras, confit, chestnuts and delicious local wines.
If you plan on eating out, it's advisable to pre-book. Ask staff for restaurant recommendations and for help with bookings.
If you plan on eating out, it's advisable to pre-book. Ask staff for restaurant recommendations and for help with bookings.