Chateau Les Merles
Near Bergerac, Dordogne & Lot, France
Reviewed by
Guy Hunter Watts
Cutting north from the Dordogne river, the approach to Les Merles is, at first glance, quintessentially Vieille France: a long avenue of pollarded plane trees leading up to the neo-classical façade of a beguiling 17th-century château, cloaked by vineyards and forest. Then you notice that the huge sweep of lawn fronting the building is a driving range, that a swimming pool takes the place of ornamental ponds and, stepping inside, that the decorative attitude is resolutely contemporary.
Les Merles is very much a family affair and the Van Grinsven slot easily into their role of keepers-of-the-castle. Golf and gourmet food are the château's twin pillars; guests come to pit themselves against a fiendish 9-hole course or book one of the 15 rooms safe in the knowledge that they are guaranteed a gourmet treat. There is a also a range of 3- and 4-bedroom villas away from the main hotel - perfect for families, groups and those who want a little bit more privacy. The 'keep it local' culinary philosophy, the friendliness of the welcome, and the sheer beauty of the setting all go towards making Les Merles, figuratively at least, right on par.
Les Merles is very much a family affair and the Van Grinsven slot easily into their role of keepers-of-the-castle. Golf and gourmet food are the château's twin pillars; guests come to pit themselves against a fiendish 9-hole course or book one of the 15 rooms safe in the knowledge that they are guaranteed a gourmet treat. There is a also a range of 3- and 4-bedroom villas away from the main hotel - perfect for families, groups and those who want a little bit more privacy. The 'keep it local' culinary philosophy, the friendliness of the welcome, and the sheer beauty of the setting all go towards making Les Merles, figuratively at least, right on par.
Highs
- Top gourmet cuisine which is well worthy of the Périgord’s excellent matières de base
- Big, airy rooms with views over the pool and out across the golf course and vineyards
- Judith and Karlijn, the Dutch Van Grinsven sisters, take genuine pleasure in looking after you
- Creative, clean-cut, contemporary design in the 15 bedrooms, the dining areas and the villas
- A devilishly challenging 9-hole golf course
- Only 10 minutes' drive from Bergerac airport
Lows
- Unless you're a golfing whizz, count on losing a few balls to the water features and forest
- Both the golf course and restaurant are open to non-residents so expect to see quite a few other folk around
- A good deal of the furniture and fittings smacks of the big Swedish store; it looks good but feels a tad unoriginal
- The grounds encompass several privately-owned holiday homes, although they're a fair distance from the main building
Best time to go
Golfers naturally tend to choose the drier summer months. If food is the focus, any time of year is a good time to be in the Dordogne and the area’s remarkably mild climate means that winter visits can also be really enjoyable.
Our top tips
Bring golf clubs and a copy of ‘How to Improve Your Swing’, swimming gear, whites and tennis shoes, a fishing rod, a guide listing the best restaurants of the Périgord, sun cream and hat, and perhaps a copy of Robert Parker's famous wine guide.