Clos des Aspres
Ortaffa, Languedoc-Roussillon, France
Reviewed by
Laura Perez
“The setting is exceptional," say owners Pierre and Emmanuel, "it's good to live here.” It's easy to see what they mean. Hidden in the heart of the sunny Languedoc-Roussillon, this traditional Catalan wine-house is surrounded by lush rolling vineyards and framed by the craggy Albères Massif. There are endless views in all directions, yet pretty villages and excellent French restaurants await just a short drive away. A little further, the sunkissed beaches of Côte Vermeille and the epic hiking trails of the Pyrenees beckon. Truly, this region of southwest France has it all — beauty, serenity, heavenly food & wine — everything except the tourist crowds, who keep away for 10 months of the year.
But equally special is this small, charming 5 bedroom guesthouse, with its easy home-from-home ambience. We spent lazy afternoons in the hammock by the pool, rolling out to pour ourselves a glass or two of chilled rosé — Pierre and Emmanuel produce their own. Inside the Mas, a clever renovation has married old and new styles, with contemporary designs blending with 19th-century shutters and stonework. There's a lovely lounge where you can kick off your flip-flops and flick through old magazines, plus a kitchen where you can make a coffee. Or if want full self-catering facilities, there's a separate gite with 4 bedrooms and its own pool, ideal for groups or families after added privacy. Wherever you choose to stay, you'll find a glorious sense of peacefulness: something we all crave.
But equally special is this small, charming 5 bedroom guesthouse, with its easy home-from-home ambience. We spent lazy afternoons in the hammock by the pool, rolling out to pour ourselves a glass or two of chilled rosé — Pierre and Emmanuel produce their own. Inside the Mas, a clever renovation has married old and new styles, with contemporary designs blending with 19th-century shutters and stonework. There's a lovely lounge where you can kick off your flip-flops and flick through old magazines, plus a kitchen where you can make a coffee. Or if want full self-catering facilities, there's a separate gite with 4 bedrooms and its own pool, ideal for groups or families after added privacy. Wherever you choose to stay, you'll find a glorious sense of peacefulness: something we all crave.
Highs
- The warm welcome from Pierre and Emmanuel, a prelude to their thoughtful hosting
- A perfect place to unwind and rejuvenate; we adored relaxing by the pool, soaking up the quiet and those incredible views
- Just 5 spacious and beautiful rooms, plus a self-catering gite with its own pool
- Excellent prices and rates include a yummy alfresco breakfast (if staying in main house)
- Suits couples and families alike: there's plenty of space for all
Lows
- No lunch or dinner service
- A late check-in - 5pm - and a minimum 3-night stay during school holidays and over bank holiday weekends
- Note, stays in the gite (Cottage) require a security deposit, and the rates don't include a compulsory end-of-stay cleaning fee or breakfast
- Pierre and Emmanuel have three very friendly dogs who delighted us but might not please everyone
Best time to go
The Languedoc-Roussillon climate is Mediterranean, with hot dry summers, rainy winters, and moderate springs and autumns. It's estimated there are 300 days of sunshine a year, so your odds of perfect weather are high! The guesthouse is open all year, and the region hosts some fun music festivals during the summer.
Our top tips
After visiting the Abbey of St Martin de Canigou, take a detour to the incredible Priory of Serrabone. The steep drive up is slightly scary, but you're rewarded with spectacular scenery. This tiny priory is a masterpiece of Romanesque art, its cloister carved from pink marble, with intricate floral engravings.