Reviewed by
Liz Simpson
One of my favourite hotels of all time, Conversas de Alpendre is a celebration of all things Portuguese. The peaceful gardens are full of gnarled cork and carob trees; the stunning furnishings are by local or Lisbon artisans — quirky rattan lampshades, rustic stools, woven art and traditional tiles; decor is fabulous throughout. Its restaurant dishes up regional recipes, including estupeta (tuna carpaccio), and octopus fresh from the ocean, and if you ask owner Marta what to do, she brims with local tips: beautiful beaches, quaint villages, meadows to explore on horseback.
It's also a celebration of family; Marta's late husband Tiago helped to create this sanctuary, which Marta now runs alongside her parents and small son Francisco, who plays in the grounds, charming everyone. But it's a family that you feel part of when you stay. While there's (thankfully) no enforced conviviality, guests naturally mingle and chat, a mix of couples and small families that somehow blends beautifully. Kids play together and adult friendships are formed over carafes of Algarve wine. A recent guest spent a fortnight here, then booked for 3 weeks next summer as he left. It didn't surprise us. Everything about this place is special.
It's also a celebration of family; Marta's late husband Tiago helped to create this sanctuary, which Marta now runs alongside her parents and small son Francisco, who plays in the grounds, charming everyone. But it's a family that you feel part of when you stay. While there's (thankfully) no enforced conviviality, guests naturally mingle and chat, a mix of couples and small families that somehow blends beautifully. Kids play together and adult friendships are formed over carafes of Algarve wine. A recent guest spent a fortnight here, then booked for 3 weeks next summer as he left. It didn't surprise us. Everything about this place is special.
Highs
- Extremely stylish rooms; we were blown away by the romantic Tree House, with its panoramic views out to sea
- Utterly peaceful and relaxing. Even when the hotel's full, you can always find a quiet hammock or outdoor sofa to read on
- Excellent prices yet a feeling of high quality runs throughout
- Marta could not be more welcoming or kind. She treats you like family, even baking cakes to help yourself to
- Just 2km from idyllic Fábrica beach; borrow bikes and cycle there
Lows
- You'll need to book early - this is a popular property, with lots of repeat guests (the sign of a great hotel)
- Dinner is a set menu (though you can tailor it for dietary requirements). It may look expensive but the food is delicious
Best time to go
The hotel is open all year, bar January and February. We visited at the start of May and had fabulous sunshine, and mid-twenties temperatures; April is similar. June, July and August can get very hot but the grounds are very shady and all rooms have air-con. September and October are gorgeous, like spring, and with the advantage of the sea being warmer.
Our top tips
Go to Fábrica beach in the morning, and you'll be able to wade over to the island at low tide, past locals plucking shellfish straight from the lagoon. Once the tide turns, you can catch a taxi boat back.