Reviewed by
Lesley Gillilan
Tavira is one of the Algarve’s most beguiling towns. A left-bank kind of place, oozing history, it’s a warren of cobbled alleys, piazzas and leafy avenues, tiles, colour-washed houses and faded grandeur, set on the banks of the River Gilao. Beyond, are the mudflats, lagoons and island beaches of the Ria Formosa. This charming hotel adds yet another reason to visit; a good excuse to stay longer.
Close to the river’s Ponta Romano, the building dates from the 18th century when a retired cook from the Royal Court built himself a fancy palace on land gifted to him by the King of Portugal. The mansion has since served time as a Catholic school for boys, then a college, but it had been left empty and neglected for over 30 years when Cristina and José (owners of Conversas de Alpendre) took it on, transformed it into a dazzling white villa and created 20 gorgeous rooms, all tastefully furnished with collections of beautiful and unusual things. They added a decked pool terrace, a rooftop lounge, a bar and restaurant (dine inside or out). The food? We think the royal chef would approve.
Close to the river’s Ponta Romano, the building dates from the 18th century when a retired cook from the Royal Court built himself a fancy palace on land gifted to him by the King of Portugal. The mansion has since served time as a Catholic school for boys, then a college, but it had been left empty and neglected for over 30 years when Cristina and José (owners of Conversas de Alpendre) took it on, transformed it into a dazzling white villa and created 20 gorgeous rooms, all tastefully furnished with collections of beautiful and unusual things. They added a decked pool terrace, a rooftop lounge, a bar and restaurant (dine inside or out). The food? We think the royal chef would approve.
Highs
- Fabulous rooms: design suites, romantic pool suites, huge mezzanine suites – we loved them all
- Perfect for a car-free holiday: trains from Tavira’s station serve most of the towns and beaches on the Algarve coast
- A home-from-home atmosphere created by caring owners and exceptionally kind and welcoming staff
- Ah, the beaches. The Ria Formosa’s Natural Park is fringed with long glorious stretches of pristine sand – among the best in the Algarve – right on the doorstep and rarely crowded
Lows
- There is a bus station right opposite and a fair amount of passing traffic but any street noise tends to die down at night
- The small private pools are unheated (the main one is)
- The hotel doesn't serve dinner on Sundays, but there are numerous restaurants within walking distance
Best time to go
The best months to visit the eastern Algarve are April-May (for spring flowers, orange blossom and early sunshine) and September-October (for balmy late summer temperatures and warm seas). July and August can be uncomfortably hot and crowded (although all the rooms have air con). Winters can get chilly, especially at night, but the sun still shines most of the time and Tavira pushes the boat out with Christmas decorations.
Our top tips
Ditch the car and take the train. The Algarve's rail network covers most of the towns and beaches along the coast. Travelling east from Tavira, takes you to Vila Real de Santo Antonio right on the Spanish border (30 minutes), or west to Olhao (25 minutes).