Reviewed by
Laila Ram
Nestled in the countryside, surrounded by orchards of orange, fig and almond, Pensão Agrícola is that best of finds: an under-the-radar, truly delightful small hotel. Set between the historic town of Tavira and the picturesque clifftop fishing village of Cacela Velha, the property is just 1.5km from the Ria Formosa delta and its idyllic deserted beaches, yet totally hidden away. But this is no country bumpkin. With stark whitewashed walls and smooth concrete floors offsetting vintage furniture and quirky touches, every last corner is superbly stylish. Wandering around, you want to take interiors' notes for your own home: traditional reed ceilings above retro pendant lamps and hip designer chairs; an upcycled metal trolley topped by a modern square sink; glass jars stuffed with fragrant herbs and wild flowers. The mix is eclectic, yet totally works.
But our favourite thing about staying at Pensao Agricola was how comfortable and utterly relaxing a hotel it is. Charming owner Rui and his staff go out of their way to make you feel welcome from the moment you arrive, and look after you magnificently throughout. Best of all, since our stay, a delightfully restored tavern has been added just down the road, giving guests the option to book one of five suites in this annex if Pensao Agricola's rooms are full.
But our favourite thing about staying at Pensao Agricola was how comfortable and utterly relaxing a hotel it is. Charming owner Rui and his staff go out of their way to make you feel welcome from the moment you arrive, and look after you magnificently throughout. Best of all, since our stay, a delightfully restored tavern has been added just down the road, giving guests the option to book one of five suites in this annex if Pensao Agricola's rooms are full.
Highs
- A perfect base for the eastern Algarve's picturesque countryside, quaint villages and breathtakingly beautiful beaches
- Slow breakfasts on the terrace overlooking the orchards - you'll taste their fruit in homemade jams and jellies
- with just six rooms in the main house, and five in the annexe, the vibe is very exclusive and intimate
- We loved lazing in the sun by the small heated pool (each building has its own)
- Delicious five-course dinners at the main Pensao were an absolute highlight of our stay
Lows
- No kids under 12 (a high for those seeking peace)
- Fairly isolated - you'll need a car to get here
- No beaches within walking distance, but you can borrow bikes if you don't want to drive
- The area can get extremely hot in July and August
- If staying in the Hospedaria annex, bear in mind it's a short (1km) drive to the main Pensaio for dinner
Best time to go
Spring flowers bloom in April and May, and the sea is nice and warm in September and October. Temperatures in July and August can hit 40 degrees. The property is closed from November to February, but it's available to rent as a whole upon request during this period.
Our top tips
Set aside a couple of evenings for visiting Tavira and dining alfresco at its waterside restaurants. There's live music most evenings in the delightful open-air arena next to the Roman bridge, and even in the height of summer the town retains a laid-back and friendly atmosphere.