Cortijo del Marques
Albolote, Granada & Sierra Nevada, Spain
Reviewed by
Guy Hunter Watts
A short whizz up the motorway from Granada, then a slower twist along a track through oak forest and olive groves, leads you to this imposing farmstead and chapel. Standing in splendid isolation amidst rolling fields of wheat, it feels Andaluz to the core: cobbled patios flanked by citrus trees and murmuring fountains wrapped within massive outer walls; towering cypresses and the chapel’s belfry silhouetted against an all-blue sky.
Silvia and Eilko - the cosmopolitan, relaxed and go-the-extra-mile hosts - spent years refashioning the main house and outbuildings. They created 15 characterful rooms and suites, along with an airy dining room, where the food is in a class of its own. The vibe throughout is peaceful, recuperative and deeply relaxing. A pool is hidden within a walled rose garden, with divine long views out to the Sierra de Arana, yet the myriad charms of Granada and its Alhambra lie just half an hour away by car.
Silvia and Eilko - the cosmopolitan, relaxed and go-the-extra-mile hosts - spent years refashioning the main house and outbuildings. They created 15 characterful rooms and suites, along with an airy dining room, where the food is in a class of its own. The vibe throughout is peaceful, recuperative and deeply relaxing. A pool is hidden within a walled rose garden, with divine long views out to the Sierra de Arana, yet the myriad charms of Granada and its Alhambra lie just half an hour away by car.
Highs
- Wonderful walking in the western Alpujarra, or explore on horseback or by bike
- Great-value rooms, and we loved their original wood-beamed ceilings and exposed stone walls. One has quirky old pigeon coops, another features old horse troughs!
- Candlelit dinners that would be hard to beat; the menu changes nightly
- Set at an altitude of 800m, so even in high summer bedrooms stay deliciously cool (further helped by air con)
- Multi-lingual hosts make everyone feel welcome
Lows
- The pool is unheated
- No TVs, and the WiFi is patchy, so pack good books to read in the evenings
- Expect the odd bump along the the track leading to the farm, even if you don’t need a 4x4 to get here
- You'll need to drive to reach other restaurants for a change of scene
- No kids under 12 permitted (a high for some!)
Best time to go
Spring is the nicest time of year, when the winter wheat is pushing through and the wildflowers at their spectacular best. Being so high (800m above sea level), summer nights stay pleasantly cool. Autumn is a great time for outdoor activities. The hotel closes from November through to mid March.
Our top tips
Visit some of the lesser-known white villages around Granada, like Moclín for its Moorish castle, Calahorra for its Italian Renaissance castle, or Colomera for its 16th-century church.