Casa Rural Las Chimeneas
Mairena-Nevada, Granada & Sierra Nevada, Spain
Reviewed by
Guy Hunter Watts
You probably won’t have heard of the tiny village of Mairena on the southern flank of the Sierra Nevada, just a few miles from where Gerard Brennan wrote ‘South from Granada’. You’re as likely to encounter a donkey as you are a car on your way to the village square: that fabled ‘old’ Spain is still alive and kicking. Emma and David, entranced by the sweeping views to the south, bought a huge village house and adjacent buildings here and have created a harmonious, organic and soothing series of living spaces and rooms that strike just the right balance between authenticity and comfort.
Light floods into the living/dining room through high windows: the view to the south, out across steeply terraced hillsides to the distant Mediterranean, is enticing. This is the sort of place where you slow down, pick up the novel you’ve been meaning to read, and fantasise about making that move to Spain. Fabulous hikes go straight out from the house; you can book an all-inclusive week of hiking, cookery or even yoga and wellness. And if none of those appeal, this is a great place to just kick back.
Light floods into the living/dining room through high windows: the view to the south, out across steeply terraced hillsides to the distant Mediterranean, is enticing. This is the sort of place where you slow down, pick up the novel you’ve been meaning to read, and fantasise about making that move to Spain. Fabulous hikes go straight out from the house; you can book an all-inclusive week of hiking, cookery or even yoga and wellness. And if none of those appeal, this is a great place to just kick back.
Highs
- This 800-year-old house breathes simple, solid comfort, it feels good to be here
- The food is really varied, and the excellent Alpujarran cooking means vegetarians are in for a treat
- Blissfully quiet Mairena is far less touristy than some other villages in the Alpujarra
- Emma and David are relaxed, caring hosts who have all the maps and documentation you'll need for a blissful week of exploration. You’ll enjoy your stay more at La Chimeneas thanks to their help and advice
Lows
- Mairena is well off the beaten track and you’ll need a car to get the most out of a stay here. But its isolation is a big part of the attraction
- Don’t expect much in the way of gadgetry; this is a simple B&B and has no pretensions to provide the sort of creature comforts that you’d expect in a hotel
- In the colder months the combination of radiators and woodburners only just manages to keep the cold at bay
Best time to go
Because of the height, you can walk in La Alpujarra throughout the year apart from when the snow is down. Between December and March you may need to trade in walking boots for cross-country skis if you want to tackle the high peaks; between 800-1500m the snow is quite rare in winter.
Our top tips
The Illsleys have gradually gained a reputation for Las Chimeneas as being one of THE places to stay amongst the walking community. Other guests come for the authenticity, and peacefulness, of this part of Andalucía. Lots of guests are on their second or third stay.