Hotel Santa Isabel la Real
Granada & Sierra Nevada, Spain
Reviewed by
Guy Hunter Watts
The Albaicín quarter of Granada rises steeply up a hillside directly opposite the Alhambra: the views from its leafy squares across the Darro gorge to the exquisite Nasrid palaces have long been a magnet for travellers, romantics and dreamers. Hotel Santa Isabel lies at the heart of its plexus of narrow alleyways, and nudges up to the convent of the same name: arriving in its sheltered patio you get that same sense of cloistered retreat.
The creation and management of the hotel is very much a family affair: managed by 2 friendly sisters - Elena and Lola - the hotel was created by their father after 3 years of inspired and meticulous restoration. The building turns around its columned patio where a trickling fountain and a double tier of balconies evoke its 16th-century origins. The 11 guest rooms are exceptionally pretty and very spick and span: those at the top of the building grab a slice of that narcotic Alhambra vista. Santa Isabel really proves the rule that small is beautiful, and the Castillo family treat you as a guest of honour.
The creation and management of the hotel is very much a family affair: managed by 2 friendly sisters - Elena and Lola - the hotel was created by their father after 3 years of inspired and meticulous restoration. The building turns around its columned patio where a trickling fountain and a double tier of balconies evoke its 16th-century origins. The 11 guest rooms are exceptionally pretty and very spick and span: those at the top of the building grab a slice of that narcotic Alhambra vista. Santa Isabel really proves the rule that small is beautiful, and the Castillo family treat you as a guest of honour.
Highs
- There's a real sense of inner sanctum, of being far removed from the cut and thrust of the city
- A cosy sitting room with comfy sofas to slump into after a day of sightseeing
- You're just around the corner from the lively bars and restaurants of Plaza San Miguel Bajo and a short stroll from the lively Moroccan quarter
- The Castillo family's gentle, ever helpful manner will make your stay here doubly memorable
- You're at the heart of the Albaicín, one of Europe's most fascinating medieval quarters
- The hotel has half a dozen off-street parking spaces right next door
Lows
- Apart from breakfast, only light snacks are available. But with so many bars and restaurants virtually next door, this is hardly a problem
- If you walk up from the Darro gorge be prepared for a steep haul, albeit through a fascinating labyrinth of narrow alleys
- None of the rooms can accommodate extra beds, and if you want a baby cot you'll have to provide your own
Best time to go
Granada is worth the journey at any time of year. In winter, if it's raining in the town it'll be snowing in the Sierra: if you ski don't miss the chance of hitting the amazing network of runs that lead out from the Sol y Nieve resort. The Alhambra is at its narcotic best in spring and summer when it's also possible to visit the palaces at night (load Manuel de Falla's Noches en los Jardines de España onto your iPod before you go!). The city looks amazing when bathed in the soft light of autumn; watch the forest of elms on the Alhambra hill change colour (the trees were a gift from Wellington to the city after the French were sent packing). And because there's so much to see and do in the way of galleries, churches and museums your enjoyment of the city is less dependent on what the weather is doing.