Dar Seffarine is a one-off: a beautifully renovated dar which combines impeccable design with lazy, laid-back living - and unbeatable prices. But it's not for everyone. If you don't mind leaving your bedroom doors open, dining with the other guests and having your mint tea served by the lad from next door, then read on.
Alaa and Kate have resurrected this 600-year-old house with their own hands, lots of love and plenty of patience. He's an architect from Iraq, she's a graphic designer from Norway, and the result is a highly original blend of Moorish monumentalism and Scandinavian minimalism. Think soaring square columns, 18-foot carved cedar doors and zellij-tiled floors set against blank white walls.
And it’s definitely a home rather than a hotel. The central courtyard and the roof terrace are the focus of communal life, and you’ll feel as if you're among friends - or people who are soon to become your friends. It’s a mecca for open-minded travellers who like to share beers and travel stories on the stunning roof terrace before retiring to a palatial but pared-down bedroom; and who want to experience the real Fes in all its gritty, colourful, noisy splendour. It's the kind of place you could easily book for a night and end up staying a week, or even a month if you're not careful.
Highs
- The stunning bedrooms have high ceilings, intricate tilework, painted wooden doors and ornate furniture
- The warm, generous hospitality from the owners goes far beyond that of any professional hotelier
- We enjoyed an excellent home-cooked dinner during our latest revisit, and guests consistently rave about the food here
- The level of quality is excellent for the price and has never wavered over the years of us visiting
- The roof terrace is the real high point here (excuse the pun) - the views alone make this an excellent place to stay
Lows
- There are lots of steep, narrow steps here
- It's very laid-back (as you will have gathered) and the communal atmosphere may not be for everyone
- Not many mod cons, and the WiFi didn't quite stretch to the roof terrace - but you'll have views and great company for entertainment
- Not for young kids - besides anything else, there are low parapets around the terrace
Best time to go
Fes is a year-round destination, but you may prefer to avoid mid-summer when temperatures can rocket and the hassle of the souks can seem that much more of an ordeal. The city has a more relaxed vibe in the low season.
Our top tips
Don't miss evenings on the roof terrace; the view of the medina is absolutely breathtaking. You're situated at the bottom of a gently curving bowl, so the city wraps itself around you, creating an utterly mesmerising view - pictures will never do it justice. Watching the city change colour as the sun set, with the call to prayer humming around us, was a real moment to remember for us.
Location
Dar Seffarine is in the south of Fes's medina, near the gate of Bab Rcif.
By Air
Fly into Fes Sais (15km), which is served by several airlines. Click on the links below for a list.
From the Airport
It is about 30 minutes from the airport to Dar Seffarine. Transfers can be arranged through the hotel (see Rates). Ask to be dropped off at the gate of Bab Rcif; it's a 5-minute walk from there so print off the map below or call the hotel for a porter/guide.
By Train
There are regular trains to Fes from Casablanca (4 hours), Tangiers (5 hours) and Marrakech (7hours).
By Car
Fes is not a car friendly city and you can only reach Seffarine on foot, so hiring a car isn't advisable here. However, if you want to hire a car to explore other parts of Morocco see our car rental recommendations.
More on getting to Morocco and getting around
Airports:
- Fes Sais 15.0 km FEZ
Other:
- Beach 150.0 km
- Shops 0.1 km
- Restaurant 0.2 km
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 1 independent review from i-escape guests
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