Reviewed by
Guy Hunter Watts
Tizwa means 'bee' in Amazigh, the local Berber language: it takes its name from brothers Daniel and Richard Bee who loved the Fes medina so much, they were inspired to open a hotel here. So they found a grand old family house of elegant proportions, and after an inspired restoration project it has become an ode to the decorative arts of Morocco: chiselled stucco, polished tadelakt, geometric woodwork, zellig and beijmat tiling, and ornate ironmongery.
Given the wealth of detail present in the fabric of the building, when it came to furnishing the riad the Bees kept things spare: a few low tables, easy chairs and potted plants in the soaring central patio; traditional silk-covered sofas in the salon; Berber rugs in a rich hue of garnet, and uncluttered bedrooms. But despite the beauty of this décor, it's not the main draw. There are other, even more appealing elements. Tizwa's roof terrace is tranquil, the welcome is warm and genuine, breakfasts (served any time you want) are fabulous, and the 9 guest rooms come with a price tag which is way below similar ones in the medina.
Given the wealth of detail present in the fabric of the building, when it came to furnishing the riad the Bees kept things spare: a few low tables, easy chairs and potted plants in the soaring central patio; traditional silk-covered sofas in the salon; Berber rugs in a rich hue of garnet, and uncluttered bedrooms. But despite the beauty of this décor, it's not the main draw. There are other, even more appealing elements. Tizwa's roof terrace is tranquil, the welcome is warm and genuine, breakfasts (served any time you want) are fabulous, and the 9 guest rooms come with a price tag which is way below similar ones in the medina.
Highs
- A great location just yards from Place Batha and the souks, with covered parking close by
- The riad is very quiet and has super-comfy beds so you'll sleep deeply
- Great for romantics: the central courtyard looks stunning at night when scented candles are lit
- Tizwa's crowning glory is its roof terrace, which grants glimpses into the medina below and the Atlas mountains beyond
Lows
- The guest sitting room felt a little dark and uninviting, although with the seating in the courtyard there's no real need to use it
- The stairs are narrow and there's no lift, though staff will help you with luggage
- Due to the layout of the old building the ground-floor rooms are quite dark, but this keeps them cooler in summer
- Simple compared to some of Fes's more elaborate riads, but this is reflected in the price
Best time to go
Fes is a narcotic and life-changing place to visit at any time of the year. Tizwa's sliding roof and excellent heating system means you'd be comfortable here even if you coincided with colder weather. Most folk would find the heat of mid summer to be an ordeal so try to avoid coming in July or August.
Our top tips
Pack a guide with a map of the medina (though you should still expect to get lost), a comfortable pair of shoes, sunglasses and sunblock and an Arab phrase book with a decent section on food