Don Totu Dimora Storica
San Cassiano, Puglia & Basilicata, Italy
Reviewed by
Abi Dare
From the street, Don Totu looks much like any other house in the sleepy Salento village of San Cassiano, albeit a rather smart one. But step inside and you’ll soon realise you have arrived somewhere very special indeed. First you enter the lounge: an elegant space decorated in pared-back neutrals, with soaring ceilings and opulent chandeliers. Beyond that, a series of vine-entwined courtyards and terraces open into sprawling gardens, dotted with fig and citrus trees and scented with jasmine. Venture further still and you’ll find the sparkling infinity pool, backed by a pool house with a Matisse mural across one wall.
With just 6 four-poster double rooms and suites, the vibe is intimate and peaceful throughout. Chances are you’ll start to unwind from the moment you arrive, but if not, the candlelit Jacuzzi pool and morning yoga sessions will certainly help. It’s tempting to stay put and do very little, but make sure you venture out: there are electric bikes and Vespas to borrow, and friendly manager Alessandra will point you in the direction of sweeping beaches, secluded nature reserves and historic towns.
With just 6 four-poster double rooms and suites, the vibe is intimate and peaceful throughout. Chances are you’ll start to unwind from the moment you arrive, but if not, the candlelit Jacuzzi pool and morning yoga sessions will certainly help. It’s tempting to stay put and do very little, but make sure you venture out: there are electric bikes and Vespas to borrow, and friendly manager Alessandra will point you in the direction of sweeping beaches, secluded nature reserves and historic towns.
Highs
- A loving restoration of a beautiful old building, with sophisticated rooms, enchanting gardens and lantern-lit terraces - ideal for romance
- An underground relaxation area with a Jacuzzi pool, hammam and ‘emotional shower’, available for private one-hour slots
- Breakfast is a cut above the rest, and there’s a free aperitivi hour daily
- Well placed for exploring the stunning Salentino Peninsula, with its beaches, natural parks and Lecce, yet it feels off the beaten track
- Wonderful service and attention to detail, from bicycles to borrow to pre-packed beach bags
Lows
- No evening meals are served so you’ll have drive / taxi out for dinner (though there are weekly Italian cinema nights with pizza in summer)
- Some of the ensuite bathrooms aren’t as special as the bedrooms they’re attached to
- The neighbouring church bell chimes every quarter of an hour from early morning to late evening, but it adds to the charm
- No TVs, radios or sound systems in the rooms
- The location is remote, in a small, sleepy village, so you'll need a car
Best time to go
Spring is wonderful, with wildflowers and balmy days, and in autumn the sea is still warm enough for swimming. July and August can be scorching, and the coast is teeming with tourists, but Don Totu makes a peaceful escape from the crowds. During summer months there are weekly cinema nights when an Italian film is shown on the roof terrace with pizza, ice cream and local wine.
Our top tips
Take time to read through the beautifully produced guide to the area, written by owners Mauro and Chiara and provided in every room. It covers food, nature, culture and more, and it’s packed with insider tips on what to see and do.
And if you've got some space in your bag, swing by their shop, where you can buy lovely ceramics and crockery as well as the hotel's personalised fragrance.
And if you've got some space in your bag, swing by their shop, where you can buy lovely ceramics and crockery as well as the hotel's personalised fragrance.