Masseria Alchimia
Fasano, Puglia & Basilicata, Italy
Reviewed by
Abigail Blasi
A traditional whitewashed former convent and girls school, Masseria Alchimia has been converted into 8 self-catering studios by the super-efficient and welcoming Caroline. Each is stylishly pale and furnished with a roll call of design classics, including furniture by Ron Arad, Charles and Ray Eames, Verner Panton, Philippe Starck and Sori Yanagi. Minimalist modernism works well in this sunbleached landscape, and the blazing-white angles of the masseria bring to mind Le Corbusier or the Bauhaus, and allows the views to sing out - the intense blue sky, the silver-green of the surrounding olive groves and the glossy green fruit trees and shrubs.
It’s out in the countryside, yet close enough to the highway to make it easy to explore the region - as we discovered when we revisited with the kids in tow. There are some buzzy beach clubs around Savelletri, Unesco-listed Alberobello is a short drive, and Fasano is an appealing, workaday town; but you can easily find a secluded spot to swim, and no end of olive groves for a private picnic or flowery ramble. Caroline offers a concierge and restaurant booking service to boot.
It’s out in the countryside, yet close enough to the highway to make it easy to explore the region - as we discovered when we revisited with the kids in tow. There are some buzzy beach clubs around Savelletri, Unesco-listed Alberobello is a short drive, and Fasano is an appealing, workaday town; but you can easily find a secluded spot to swim, and no end of olive groves for a private picnic or flowery ramble. Caroline offers a concierge and restaurant booking service to boot.
Highs
- Minimalist urban chic and modern design classics in a tranquil rural setting with views over the fields
- Excellent value for money, even in high season
- All studios have sun-trap terraces for alfresco dining and lounging
- Eco-friendly: measures include solar energy, recycling and controlled water consumption
- Intimate setting - no town or hotel within sight - yet you're only 1km from the shops in Fasano and 3km from the beach
- For something less rural, see Caroline's beautiful bolthole for couples, set in historic Ostuni
Lows
- No pool, though the Deluxe Suite has an outdoor plunge pool, and the beach is a short drive away
- No meals served, although there's enough provided on arrival to whip up a basic breakfast. The studios have small kitchenettes with fairly minimal facilities, so don’t expect to cook banquets
- Not for those who prefer the full service provisions of a hotel, although the rooms are serviced daily
- The small Standard Rooms have terraces alongside each other, so they're not very private
Best time to go
Puglia is lovely in spring (May-June), when the weather’s perfect, wild flowers run riot, and the beaches and towns are uncrowded. September and October are also great, especially as the sea has warmed up over the summer. It's packed, and hot, in August, but this is also prime time for the region’s many music and food festivals.
Our top tips
Stroll up through the fields of vegetables at the back of the property to the farm shops - Masseria Monte and Masseria Lama di Pecora - for lovely local produce to bring home to cook with. The kitchenettes are a marvel in how to get everything inside a cupboard, but they are small, and you may find eating in for every meal becomes arduous.