From the flatlands of Puglia, Ostuni rises like an impregnable fortress from the plains - but as you approach, this menacing façade morphs into a delicate wedding cake, with whitewashed layers reaching towards the bright blue sky. Smooth cobbled alleyways lead towards the summit, past a babble of trattorias and cats patiently waiting for leftovers. Squares appear from nowhere, with the impossibly grand cathedral shoehorned between the tangle of houses. And finally you reach Ostuni Hideaway - a totally dreamy bolthole tucked high in a grand 17thC tower house.
As you enter and climb up and up, Old Ostuni is jolted out of you; inside the open-plan apartment flashes of colour and bold statement pieces marry the history of the building with beautifully curated design. Forget age-old Italian décor, this is the future - and it’s all the better for it. The pièce de résistance is saved until the final call - after the heat of the day abates, follow your instincts up to the roof terrace. A cool breeze blows, the cathedral bells toll, the swifts play their dusk games and the Aperol spritz flows. This is the moment we decided to up sticks to Puglia, buy a vintage Fiat 500 and live out our days under the olive trees (we’re still in the office, but the dream survives).
Highs
- Gloriously romantic in every way
- The roof terrace and those views - look left for the Adriatic, look right for a patchwork of roofs to the cathedral. You’re the cherry on the cake
- Ostuni is a pedestrianised town, so blissfully void of cars and noise
- Modern décor is a cut above, with fun quirky touches (we loved the traditional festival wooden lights)
- A personalised map by owner Caroline, which pinpoints her favourite sights; she also owns the beautiful Masseria Alchimia, if you'd prefer a more rural stay
Lows
- Although the apartment can technically fit 2-3, the open-plan layout is best suited to a couple
- The tiny kitchenette is just for light bites rather than making slap-up meals, but you're surrounded by great restaurants
- A 3-night minimum stay, and 7 nights preferred in July and August
- Ostuni is pedestrianised, so there's no parking at the apartment, but Caroline can arrange a parking spot in a garage outside the old town for a fee
- If you have mobility issues, forget it. There are 42 small, steep narrow steps climbing from street level up to the living space
Best time to go
July and August bake under a searing heat, and the small town is weighed down with day-trippers. Come in spring or autumn to enjoy the town like a local and explore in comfort. We visited in October and the weather was still balmy and the sea warm enough to swim.
Our top tips
There are some beautiful beach clubs in the region; perfect for a lazy day in the sun: Guna Beach Club (Torre Guaceto), Bambu Beach Club (Capitolo) and Taverna da Santos (Torre Canne). You can pay a day fee at each for sunloungers, service and use of the bar/restaurant.
- Boutique Apartment
- 1 bedroom
- Self catering, restaurants nearby
- Welcome but not ideal
- Open all year
- Pool
- Spa Treatments
- Beach Nearby
- Pet Friendly
- Disabled Access
- Car recommended
- Parking
- Restaurants Nearby
- WiFi
- Air Conditioning
- Guest Lounge
- Terrace
- Garden
- Gym
- Daily Maid Service
- Towels & Bedlinen
Rooms
After climbing 42 stairs from the street, you enter the open-plan apartment by the kitchen/dining area, which leads to the bed and bathtub (not for the shy). It is compact, but clever design makes the most of the space. Kitchen tops reveal hidden sinks, storage slots into the most unlikely spaces. There's a separate WC, too.
Each little window frames a sea view and the original features of the 17thC tower house give the apartment bags of character: stone fireplaces, beautiful vaulted ceilings and arched doorways. This marries brilliantly with ultra-modern design features, including unique brass light fittings and oversize brooding glass photos on the wall. It’s a heady mix and we loved it.
Further stairs lead up to the private roof terrace, with potted plants, colourful tiles and original stone flooring hosting sunloungers and comfy chairs. Washing lines of fairy lights sparkle as the stars come out to play. The views of the Adriatic and the rooftops of Ostuni are breathtaking, day or night.
Features include:
- Air conditioning
- Hairdryer
- WiFi
Eating
There’s a kitchenette and dining area with hob, Italian coffee pods, fridge and toaster but no kettle or oven; it’s ideal for breakfast and a light lunch, but rather limited for prepping a feast. Pastries and coffee on the roof terrace are an utterly perfect way to start the day - there is a cafe downstairs. Grocery stores are a 5-minute walk away or you can stock up on ingredients on the way here, at a larger supermarket on the edge of town.
Owner Caroline has lived in this part of the world for many years and knows it inside out. There are heaps of cosy little restaurants, bars and cafés within a stone's throw of the apartment. But the real joy of staying within the city walls is enjoying the evening ambiance after the day trippers leave… sunset drinks on the roof terrace will be our lasting memory of Ostuni.
Features include:
- Coffee maker
- Kitchenette
- Restaurants nearby
Activities
- Explore Ostuni - a jewel of a town. Wander along cobbled lanes, past fragrant bakeries and Baroque churches
- Walk or drive through the rolling countryside, where olive trees twist around dry-stone walls, interspersed with distinctive trulli
- The nearby towns of Cisternino and Martina Franca are full of labyrinthine alleys and inviting restaurants. Alberobello, the original trulli town, has become over-touristy and rather tacky
- Head to the beach. There's a string of sandy lidos nearby
- Nip down the motorway to the exuberant Baroque town of Lecce (1 hour away). It’s packed with honey-stoned palazzi, ornate churches and Roman remains
- Or head up to the low-key harbour town of Polignano a Mare (40 minutes), with its wave-beaten rocks, sheltered cove and famous cave-restaurant
Activities on site or nearby include:
- Hiking
- Historical sites
- Museums / galleries
- Nightlife
- Sailing
- Shopping / markets
- Snorkelling
- Swimming
- Windsurfing
Kids
Although the apartment can technically fit a family of 3, by adding a single bed into the main room, it would be a bit of a squeeze. So we think it's best suited to a couple. If you're bringing a baby you'll need to bring your own travel cot.
Families Should Know:
You have to climb a lot of steep steps to reach the living space in the first place, so pack as lightly as possible! And you will need to watch your child like a hawk on the roof terrace.
For more family-friendly places, see our Kids Collection
Location
The apartment is located at the very top of Ostuni hill town in the southern Italian region of Puglia.
By Air:
The nearest airports are Brindisi (35km) and Bari (70km).
By Train:
There are trains from Rome to Ostuni (but not direct).
By Car:
We recommend hiring a car to make the most of the area. Ostuni is a pedestrianised town so you can't park outside the apartment. Let Caroline know in advance and she can reserve a spot in a nearby garage for a fee. You'll then need to walk up to the old town from there.
Detailed directions will be sent once your booking is confirmed.
Read our guide to Getting to Italy and Getting around
Airports:
- Brindisi 35.0 km
- Bari 70.0 km
Other:
- Beach 7.0 km
- Shops 0.5 km
- Restaurant 0.5 km
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