There aren't many hotels that can offer guests a ride in a Lamborghini. But that was what pitched up to take our son around the 35 acres of grounds at Eleonas Hotel. Granted, it was a Lamborghini tractor, and the journey was bumpy - but he was thrilled. At the wheel was Stefanos, who together with wife Marina, moved back to Evia in the late 90s to settle on the farm that had been in their family for almost 2 centuries. Over the next couple of years they built a charming 10-bedroomed guesthouse perched on a hill that overlooks their olive groves and out across the Evoikos Gulf (eleonas is Greek for 'olive grove') - a peaceful agrotourism experience for lucky guests in the know.
It's mainly Athenians who have discovered this sleepy island, which is in fact the second largest in Greece. Crystal-clear water, deserted beaches and pine forests are the main drawcards for those making the 3-hour drive north from Athens. But it was Stefanos and Marina's thoughtfulness and extensive local knowledge that really made our stay unforgettable. Sweet touches such as handmade games for kids, ever-changing home-baked breakfasts, beach umbrellas to borrow - plus, of course, those ravishing views.
Highs
- It's phenomenal value for money
- Simple, light and airy bedrooms with sea views; most have outdoor space, and 3 have additional bunk rooms for kids
- An impressive sustainability commitment - the farm is organic and the hotel Green-Key certified - brilliantly balancing eco with comfort
- Breathtaking sunsets and star gazing from the terrace
- Hiking and biking trails galore on your doorstep: Stefanos can arrange bike hire, or lend backpacks and binoculars
Lows
- No pool, and the beach is an 8-minute walk down a steep track
- The restaurant is closed for the foreseeable due to staffing issues, so you'll have to head out for meals (breakfast is still served)
- No kids under 5
- Might be too quiet for some, although the small village of Rovies, with its bars and restaurants, is only a 5-minute drive
- A 3-hour drive from Athens, but it's straightforward, with a bridge separating Evia from the mainland; no need for a ferry
Best time to go
Come for the walking, wild flowers and birdwatching in April, May and June; or in October to see the olive harvest. High summer is hot, of course, but you can quickly escape into the mountainous wooded interior - there are rivers and pools to swim in; and the weather on Evia is typically a few degrees cooler (and a little wetter) than the Cyclades or Crete.
Our top tips
There's a secret beach just south of Rovies, which you can access directly by car - ideal if you're with younger children who won't enjoy a long walk to the beach in the heat. Just drive along the track, pull in and you're within 5m of the shore - bliss. There's no shade so ask Marina to lend you an umbrella. Like most of the beaches here, it's somewhat pebbly, but completely empty outside August, and with wonderfully clear water.
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 2 independent reviews from i-escape guests
A lovely family run guesthouse with traditional Greek hospitality. Wonderful service from a family who really know and care about the area. Potential visitors should note that the area was badly affected by forest fires two years ago and that the damage is still, sadly, visible in Aug 2023.
We had lovely stay in Elena's Hotel. Arrived late but our host was waiting for us with refreshing drink. Room very nice and clean with beautiful view. In the morning gorgeous breakfast with amazing choice of home made produce. Host Marina made our stay very relaxed and full of knowledge about local places - helped us choose where to go and make most of it. She gave us details for car renting company as car is really needed there. We had really amazing holiday and I'm sure Marina's personal approach will be something we would like to experience in our next visit to Greece again. Highly recommended - great value for money!
Feedback is only from guests who have booked and stayed through i-escape