Reviewed by
Emma Taylor
If you've ever dreamt of ditching the city rat-race for a simple rural lifestyle, here's your chance. Set in 500 hectares of private estate, these 3 farmhouses, tastefully converted into 7 rustic-chic apartments for 2-6, 1 villa for 8-10 and 1 house for 2, are surrounded by nothing but woodland, hills, pastures and utter tranquillity.
Forests full of wild boar, deer and locally-prized white truffles cover half of the estate, and there's a remote wildness quite unlike postcard-Tuscany, with its uniform lines of cypresses and vines. Guests are welcome to roam the land as they please, and you could explore for days. As well as walking and tracking wildlife, you can go truffle hunting in autumn, pick wild herbs in spring and gorge yourself on figs and cherries in summer - all of it organically grown. Wine-tasting and sightseeing opportunities abound: the towers of San Gimignano and the underrated town of Volterra are on your doorstep, Siena and Florence not much further. But it's the sense of remoteness, nature and space which mark this place out, and may have you pondering a permanent move to the countryside.
Forests full of wild boar, deer and locally-prized white truffles cover half of the estate, and there's a remote wildness quite unlike postcard-Tuscany, with its uniform lines of cypresses and vines. Guests are welcome to roam the land as they please, and you could explore for days. As well as walking and tracking wildlife, you can go truffle hunting in autumn, pick wild herbs in spring and gorge yourself on figs and cherries in summer - all of it organically grown. Wine-tasting and sightseeing opportunities abound: the towers of San Gimignano and the underrated town of Volterra are on your doorstep, Siena and Florence not much further. But it's the sense of remoteness, nature and space which mark this place out, and may have you pondering a permanent move to the countryside.
Highs
- This is utter pastoral bliss, yet just 1 hour from Florence, Siena and Pisa
- The wonderful hosts, Guido and helpers, believe in Slow Food and offer seasonal fruit and herb culinary lessons, pasta-making demos and guided truffle hunts
- The apartments combine simple rustic stylishness and spaciousness - a cut above most Tuscan farmhouse conversions; and all are good for families
- Each building has its own pool: a large one for Doderi guests, another for Brentina, and a private plunge pool for Trosce villa
- There's a huge variety of plantlife on the estate: blackberries, figs, apples, plums, nuts, herbs, elderflower, pears, cherries, peaches... go forage
Lows
- After entering the estate, you have to drive over bumpy tracks to reach your accommodation, but nothing an ordinary hire car can't handle
- Doderi and Brentina are split into 3-4 apartments, so sound can carry between them; but most guests are peaceful, and we weren't bothered by any noise
- You're on an organic farm so expect a few creepy crawlies
- Be aware that it's Saturday-Saturday rentals only in summer (and check in before 8pm)
- Le Trosce and Brentina Ovile don't have central heating, but do have gas furnaces that can be used for an extra charge
Best time to go
Summer in Tuscany is busy, but this place is a haven from the crowds - and the pools are a godsend too (though bear in mind there's no air-con). If you're planning to do some sightseeing then May-June or September-October will have fewer tourists yet reliably good weather, while winter is blissfully quiet but can have cold, frosty weather, rain and occasional snow. Each season brings something new here - don't forget the truffle season, which runs from October to December. The hotel is closed from the end of December until mid-March.
Our top tips
One of the great things about Italy is the availability of local produce; Barbialla Nuova is truly Italian. On our first visit we stayed over a public holiday and hadn't stocked up at all... but we needn't have panicked. We ended up cooking an organic, seasonal feast of zucchini flower frittata with tomato and basil salad, and new potatoes crushed with sage, garlic and olive oil. Foraging and feeding from the land, in such a stunning setting, made it a very memorable meal and one that fitted in well with the ethos of Barbialla Nuova.
The famous Mostra del Tartufo Bianco (White Truffle Festival) takes place each November in San Miniato (about 30 minutes away) - it's foodie heaven in this part of the world and well worth exploring. There are also guided truffle hunts around the local area if you want to try your hand at tracking down the elusive delicacy for yourself.
The famous Mostra del Tartufo Bianco (White Truffle Festival) takes place each November in San Miniato (about 30 minutes away) - it's foodie heaven in this part of the world and well worth exploring. There are also guided truffle hunts around the local area if you want to try your hand at tracking down the elusive delicacy for yourself.