Reviewed by
Abi Dare
Standing sentry over a sea of Tuscan hills, the estate of Pignano has quite a history. Inhabited since 900BC, it’s witnessed war, peace, plague and prosperity, and even a stint as a medieval hospital. Today its main focus is relaxation, thanks to a decade-long restoration that has seen it transformed into a sumptuous and spoiling retreat.
At the hotel’s heart is a rambling old villa, whose ramparts enclose 16 frescoed rooms and suites, plus an elegant restaurant; dotted around are a variety of cottages and villas. But that’s not all. If you fancy lazy days doing very little, you’ll find cypress-scented lawns, fire-warmed lounges, and a sparkling pool carved into a former limestone quarry. If you’d prefer a bit of activity, there are music and billiards rooms, a yoga hall, a lake, horses to ride, and art and cookery classes to sample. There’s also a biodynamic garden that produces everything from the veg and honey used in the kitchen to the herbs which infuse the in-room soaps. Beyond, the walled towns of Volterra and San Gimignano tempt with their towers and trattorias. It’s a very special place indeed.
At the hotel’s heart is a rambling old villa, whose ramparts enclose 16 frescoed rooms and suites, plus an elegant restaurant; dotted around are a variety of cottages and villas. But that’s not all. If you fancy lazy days doing very little, you’ll find cypress-scented lawns, fire-warmed lounges, and a sparkling pool carved into a former limestone quarry. If you’d prefer a bit of activity, there are music and billiards rooms, a yoga hall, a lake, horses to ride, and art and cookery classes to sample. There’s also a biodynamic garden that produces everything from the veg and honey used in the kitchen to the herbs which infuse the in-room soaps. Beyond, the walled towns of Volterra and San Gimignano tempt with their towers and trattorias. It’s a very special place indeed.
Highs
- The feel is peaceful and remote, yet it’s near 2 of Tuscany's prettiest towns and less than an hour from Florence, Siena and Pisa
- Sublime views to Volterra and the distant sea. On clear days you can spot Corsica shimmering on the horizon
- Delicious food, plus weekly pizza nights in the garden or roasts by the fire in the medieval kitchen
- Wonderfully romantic, but the laid-back vibe means it works for families, too (with accommodation options for all, a kids pool, plus guided kids' adventures )
- A strong commitment to all things local and organic, with fruit, veg, honey, meat, cereals, pasta and more produced on site
Lows
- It’s reached via a bumpy 1km track, with a very tight turn from the main road
- It’s a drive to the nearest town, though there’s plenty on site to fill your days
- Rooms have no TVs or radios (but they do now have A/C)
- As one of our guests wrote: high-end price, but also high-end value
Best time to go
Borgo Pignano has something to enchant in every season. Spring brings wildflowers and green hills; summer, sun-drenched days and balmy evenings (though the nearby towns get very busy). We stayed in October and were treated to rich autumn colours, crackling fires, and the lovely scent of wood smoke drifting across the valley; it’s also the time to visit if you fancy trying your hand at truffle hunting (available on request). The hotel is usually closed from early January to March.
Our top tips
If you’re here for romance, private dinners can sometimes be arranged at the top of the tower in the main villa - a pop-the-question spot if ever there was one. Either way, it's worth climbing the tower for sweeping views in every direction, especially at sunset, or to stargaze once darkness falls.
If you're here with children, book a soap-making session: it's great fun! Using wild flowers from the estate, and under the guidance of an English-speaking herbalist, help create bars of all sizes in a choice of colours and aromas - to use or take home as gifts.
If you're here with children, book a soap-making session: it's great fun! Using wild flowers from the estate, and under the guidance of an English-speaking herbalist, help create bars of all sizes in a choice of colours and aromas - to use or take home as gifts.