This gorgeous corner of the Basque Country encompasses all of our favourite things: a mountain-framed coastline, a forested interior, quiet beaches met by long, rolling waves (surfers will know of it) and a culture ingrained by its cuisine: the Basques love their food, so we love the Basques! If you don’t want to take our word for it, take it from Hemingway, who fell in love with this region when visiting Spanish friends in the 1920s – he even based a novel (The Sun Also Rises) on his trip.
So you can imagine our delight when we heard about a converted farmhouse here that’s named after the famous author. Transformed by a local family (who also run the Ea Astei apartments nearby), this rustic, timber-framed building now houses 6 swish apartments. Scandi-chic in style, they come in one- or two-bedroom formations, with open-plan layouts, smart kitchens for self-catering and picture windows revealing sweeping views.
Thanks to its location beside the Urdaibai estuary (a Unesco biosphere reserve), the house is on a popular bird migration route. The nearest beach is five minutes away, or there are plenty of others nearby, and surfing and kitesurfing are popular activities due to reliable waves and prevailing winds. If you prefer land-based action, the mountainous interior is marked by dozens of hiking and biking trails, and the museums and galleries of Bilbao are within easy day trip distance. Talk about a hidden gem!
Highs
- Smart, high-spec apartments with chic styling and lots of local, natural materials
- Those incredible estuary views - most apartments have balconies for taking it in
- We hear Irune and Jon are the perfect hosts: warm, friendly and full of local tips
- Beaches on your doorstep: the nearest is a five-minute walk away
- Great for outdoorsy families thanks to a choice of two-bedroom apartments, good kitchens, lots of outside space and plenty to do in the area (surfing, kitesurfing, cycling, birdwatching)
Lows
- No swimming pool, but there’s a hot tub and the beach is nearby
- This is a rural location; you’ll need a car to get here
- The nearest supermarket is a 15-minute drive away in Guernica so shopping trips will need to be pre-planned
- The all-glass bathroom walls in some apartments don't provide much privacy for ablutions!
- This area of Spain can be wet and windy so come prepared for all seasons
Best time to go
The Basque Country has a mild year-round climate, but it is the cloudiest region of Spain and prone to rainfall. The upside of this, though, is its lush green landscape. Spring, from March onwards, is the nicest time to visit - sunny days and less chance of rain. Summer is hot and lovely, though the towns can get very busy with tourists during July and August. Autumn and winter are wetter but not cold: September is still pleasant.
Our top tips
When you fancy a break from cooking, there’s a good restaurant called The Kanala Jatetxea just 100 metres from the house, specialising in pizzas and charcoal-grilled meats. Plenty of other restaurants are a short drive away – just ask Irune for recommendations.
Our guests' ratings...
Based on 6 independent reviews from i-escape guests
We had a wonderful stay at The Hemingway Riverview Appartments. Irune is great - can't wait to get there again.
We absolutely loved our time here (2 adults and 12 year old child). We had an apartment with a view of the estuary, of which you will never tire. Surfing lessons on Laga beach were great fun. Amazing beaches, and so much quieter than Mediterranean Spain in summer - mainly Spanish tourists. Very helpful and friendly owners. Beautiful find.
Stunning views, great position and friendly owners. Near a small quiet beach. Good walks. Well placed for exploring the least developed part of the coast and visiting Guernica
We (a family of four) really enjoyed our stay. The area is stunning and not especially touristy. Weather was absolutely perfect. Our apartment (Mountain) was well equipped and spacious, but it was on the ground floor and there was noise from the apartment above at night. It also overlooks a main road. The apartments are within walking distance from two lovely beaches and a longer walk/short drive to a third. There are no shops close by, so a car is a necessity. Irune and her partner were very helpful and responsive to emails.
Just back from a stay at Hemingway Apartments. Irune was there to meet us and is a great host. She is happy to help with any questions or recommendations for the area.
The apartment (we rented a 2 bed) was very comfortable with a lovely garden to relax in and take in the beautiful view. There is a communal shed with bodyboards and surfboards that can be borrowed.
It was our first visit to this part of Spain and we loved it- lots of gorgeous beaches and quaint villages to explore. Plenty of outdoor activities from swimming, surfing, paddle boarding, and walking.
We had great food from the restaurant across the road but otherwise would recommend doing a shop in Guernika to stock up on basics.
Would definitely recommend the Hemingway Apartments if you are looking to explore this area of Spain.
Very spacious, light and airy apartment in Kanala. The hosts Jon and Irune are very welcoming and helpful. In addition to the apartment, there is a communal area and laundry room and large gardens with stunning views across the estuary. We loved this area. There is plenty to see and do without having to travel far. However, the local train service is brilliant and very cheap and we used this to go to Bilbao and Bermeo. There is a restaurant almost opposite the apartments which does great pizza and a bar/ cafe, good for snacks, at Layda about 1 km away. Fantastic walking in stunningly beautiful alpine-like hills and great beaches, we particularly like Lada beach. Worth reading up about the history of this area before you visit, it’s fascinating!
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